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The Far Side
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Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpio Rising  S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 

Spellcaster 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric Berghorn, Andrew Berge
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,035
Submitted By: eric berghorn on Jul 10, 2014

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Vanessa on Spellcaster

Description 

This short sustained face climb was visited by Chris Summit, Jerry Dodrill, and others back in the 1990's. It took some searching to locate this obscure top-rope, an unlikely, well-hidden, boulder problem. If Spellcaster was located in a West Sonoma County creekbed it might stand out as a quality V2. Alas, the route traverses above steep loose gully with a bad landing, and is now a sport climb.

Location 

This route is located at the far western facing side of on the lower buttress formation. Continue hiking 200 feet past the Shutes/Mills route on the lower trail beyond Step to The Left. The trail continues downward for 100 ft. before traversing back towards the base of the lower buttress. Spellcaster is farthest route to the left of the "lower buttress" routes past Continental Drift Whiplash, Boneless Chicken Ranch, Seymour Frishberg, Lichen It, Farthing, and around the corner from Scorpio Rising. Belay just up and left of a manzanita bush and a boulder.

Protection 

4 S.S. Glue-in bolts protect this climb, which tops out on a sloping ledge w/anchor and lower off rings.


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By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
Oct 19, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Very fun, short and sustained route.