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Far Side - Lower Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Lichen It T 
Scorpio Rising  S 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Spellcaster S 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric Berghorn, Andrew Berge
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,270
Submitted By: Eric Berghorn on Jul 10, 2014

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Vanessa on Spellcaster


This short sustained face climb was visited by Chris Summit, Jerry Dodrill, and others back in the 1990's. It took some searching to locate this shady obscurity. If Spellcaster provided a safe flat landing it might stand out as a quality V2 Highball. Alas, with the route traversing above a steep ravine complete with a bad landing, it is now a sport climb.


This route is located at the far western facing side of on the lower buttress formation. Continue hiking 200 feet past the Shutes/Mills route on the lower trail beyond Step to The Left. The trail continues downward for 100 ft. before traversing back towards the base of the lower buttress. Spellcaster is farthest route to the left of the "lower buttress" routes past Continental Drift Whiplash, Boneless Chicken Ranch, Seymour Frishberg, Lichen It, Farthing, and around the corner from Scorpio Rising. Belay from the base of Scorpio Rising or around a boulder to the left if desired.


4 S.S. Glue-in bolts protect this climb, which tops out on a sloping ledge w/anchor and lower off rings.

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By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
Oct 19, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Very fun, short and sustained route.

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