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Speedstick 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Cronin
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: Chris treggE on Jun 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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SteveZ through the crux on jugs.

Description 

A hard start on small holds leads to easier enjoyable climbing, and then a crimpy crux up high. Finish on stealth jugs. See accompanying photos for position of the climb.

Location 

Right of Oh that Smell. Third route from the leftmost route on the wall. Do yourself a favor and buy the Cronin guidebook.

Protection 

6 bolts, anchors. Stick clip is not a bad idea to have at spearfish.


Photos of Speedstick Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve entering the crux section.
Steve entering the crux section.

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By Franck Vee
Jul 25, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is an amazing route for those looking for a though onsight at the grade. It is doable as you don't have so much pressure pump-wise, but the route will keep you guessing from the mid-point to the finish. It's easy to miss a critical pockets, and at other time you may not actually see what you're aiming for but need to go explore for holds, although you don't want to over-commit doing that either.

The crux is somewhat crimpy, but really more about feet placements than about crushing finger strength. It's not an easy crux for 11b, but again as much as bout position as it is about strength. One would wish it went a bit longer.

The first crux could be considered getting off the ground - it is the hardest single move of the route, more bouldery in nature than the real crux above. You could probably cheat it somewhat by traversing from Oh that Smell.

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