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East Gate Buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

Speed Of Life 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: Drew Bedford and Dave Casey 1985
Season: East Facing
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: bheller on Aug 29, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


For me the most interesting line on the wall. A somewhat serious outing, expect technically demanding and thought(or anxiety!) provoking movement the whole way. The natural gear adds greatly to the experience! Carefully solo up for 20 feet (5.9) past a hollow sounding plate to a diagonaling crack/seam- you can get in a finger sized cam in a pod a bit to the right here that with a sling protects the next moves getting to the first bolt at 25ft. Now climb the alternating seam/finger cracks up and slightly right, protecting with trad gear until you can clip the second bolt. At this second bolt it seems most obvious to climb left, but this way is deceptively difficult (V5 kitty litter (KL)friction?) going a few feet right at this bolt with a sneaky in-obvious sequence allowed for passage at about V4 KL friction. Get established on yet more intermittent seams/cracks at a stance above this final bolt and build of nest of decent, but not bomber gear. Finally, boldly finish up easier (5.10), but basically unprotected climbing for 25 feet to an ugly finish in a left leaning groove. There is a pillar you can sling a bit before the finish, but if you manage to blow it here you're certainly broken- and you never would have made it here in the first place;) Speed of Life would be a 3 star route if not for the somewhat ugly finish, but the first half is unquestionably great.


25 feet right and up-slope from Ankle Biters. Look for the diagonal right rising seam at 20ft or so with a bolt 5 feet above it next to a right facing flake/seam feature.


Micro nuts and cams- micros and C3s up to finger sized. Slings. 2 bolts on route. Chain anchors.

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Aug 29, 2016

Listed as 11c in the guide books...maybe someting broke? Maybe I'm just becoming light...Drew if you can show me how this is 3 grades easier I'll gladly change the rating;)
By jonathan knight
Aug 29, 2016

Maybe you should withhold judgement while temps are above 70 degrees?
By bheller
From: SL UT
Aug 30, 2016

Though of that Talladega...'cept all the other routes on the wall more or less felt accurately graded. What I wouldn't give right now for 40 degrees!;)
By apross
Aug 30, 2016

Bifocals bro.
By the way, thought you were getting on this?
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Oct 24, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

You're just promoting grade erosion Mr. Heller.

Historical note: when the route went up, the second bolt was actually a 1/4" buttonhead that I'd cinch a wire over. Some well-meaning retro'er added the hangered bolt years later.

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