Speed Clip Pantie
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A vertical face with some painful and possibly injurious monos. Extremely technical and subtle. Originally rated 10c- tho while it might well have started out that way (one never knows), it's now eroded up to it's present rating. Extremely beta dependent: the choreography is intricate.
This route is just right of its neighbor- Three Finger Louie. Standard rap or lower.
4 bolts widely spaced. Fortunately this routes top anchors can be approached rather easily by following the base of the cliff as it rises east to gain the top and then walking back west to where a tree allows a 15' rappel to the two bolt anchor. One can then lower and hang long slings from the lead bolts to simulate additional protection to improve the climbing experience considerably.
Feb 14, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Monos are nice finger stackers. Def not 5.11 and just a little run out after the last bolt. Good route, get on it.
By Toby Wehler
From: Chicago, IL
Dec 15, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Liked this one. Thin holds to a couple of clipping jugs. Def not R rated, thought it was chill except for getting to the chains even though the climbing is easier up there. 10+ seems about right. Didn't try the arete to the left