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Clogwyn y Grochan
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Peter Harding, 1947
Page Views: 156
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Nov 5, 2011

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Varied climbing with a classic crack on pitch 3.

P1 65' 5.8: From the lowest point of the buttress climb a crack, then a wall using a thin crack; carry on up, trending right to a tree belay beneath a groove.

P2 100' 5.9: Climb the groove (hard), crossing left at the top (thin) beneath a small overhang. Up a short groove then follow slabs rightwards to belay beneath a steep crack in the left wall.

P3 35' 5.9: "The crack is entered by a suitable method. Layback for the bold, mantleshelf for the gymnast or belly-roll and leg-kicking for the masses. Once entered, the trap is sprung, for retreat is virtually impossible and the exit is extremely hard. Hand-jamming and foot-scraping seem the usual techniques required" (Ron James, 1970).

P4 100' 5.7: Traverse on to the left wall and climb this steeply. Abseil (50 m) from spikes or continue to the top.


Spectre is on Goat's Buttress, which is to the left of the steep central wall of the Grochan. Descend by traversing into a gully on the left side of the cliff (looking in).


Standard rack

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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Oct 27, 2012

5.9; 1947. Harding's big push - a must do. Great Ron James quote. His book was our bible.

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