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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Brian Smoot, Mike Perkins
New Route: Yes
Season: spring summer fall
Page Views: 3,145
Submitted By: tenesmus on Sep 4, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Specter topo

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This is a nice line. A steep crux, a vertical crux, an off-vertical crux. Some of the best, most crisp crimps I've laid hands on.

AKA: Black Power


Look for the black chain/bolt anchor below the black streak. You won't be able to see the climber on the upper crux from here so we added a two bolt belay off to the left on a good ledge. If you go over there, please watch your rope carefully as you lower and clean (especially the bottom bolt).
Alternatively, we added a belay 25 feet left on a ledge that allows you to see the climber for the whole climb. I haven't belayed this climb from over there but its just an option.


10 or 12 bolts to a bolted belay. Bring a couple of long runners for the middle and start. 70M rope to descend.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 6, 2015
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 4, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Its Black Power...its rad...and its no handbag!
By tenesmus
Sep 5, 2010

Its Specter.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Jules: Describe what Marsellus Wallace looks like!
Brett: What?
Jules: Say 'what' again. Say 'what' again, I dare you, I double dare you motherfucker, say what one more Goddamn time!
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Jules: Mmm-mmmm. That is a tasty burger. Vincent, ever have a Big Kahuna Burger?
[Vincent shakes his head]
Jules: Wanna bite? They're real tasty.
Vincent: Ain't hungry.
Jules: Well, if you like burgers give 'em a try sometime. I can't usually get 'em myself because my girlfriend's a vegitarian which pretty much makes me a vegitarian. But I do love the taste of a good burger. Mm-mm-mm. You know what they call a Quarter Pounder with cheese in France?
Brett: No.
Jules: Tell 'em, Vincent.
Vincent: A Royale with cheese.
Jules: A Royale with cheese! You know why they call it that?
Brett: Because of the metric system?
Jules: Check out the big brain on Brett! You're a smart motherfucker. That's right. The metric system.
By vacano
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Full on "porn star" route! (per Ten Sleep guide scale)
By John Steiger
Aug 15, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

One of the very best pitches I’ve done in Utah (at least those I remember). It has it all, great rock, super position, superlative setting, well-bolted, and really tricky cruxes that keep coming. I could see this being 11d if one were well-tuned on steep slab, but I’m not, so… Uh, Ten -- 5.11c, really?
By tenesmus
Aug 27, 2012

As this route has gotten more traffic the feedback is that its probably, "Really friendly 5.12" so I guess it should be graded .12a. Psyched people are coming up here.

(*edited to say I'm stoked the consensus stayed in the .11 range. And lol, I'm not a sand-bagger -
you guys just don't climb this style very often.)
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

  • mental note* - tenesmus is a sandbagger...
By John Steiger
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

It might have something to do with Ten’s NBA-small-forward height, but sandbagging does seem to be popular among some of the current crop of LCC first ascensionists (cough, Andy Ross, cough).
By grk10vq
Aug 29, 2012

I heard the British climb with rockets in their pants?

-Fight Grade Creep-
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Very nice route. Nothing to complain about other than a few strangely-placed bolts and the mega-sandbag rating on this site. Also, don't climb this with anything shorter than a 70m.
By Mark D Evans
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Fantastic route!! Keeps coming at you! Loved the micro crimp face up high! Seemed to me that the steep crux and vertical crux are one right after the other. The upper crux is really tricky to figure out, but not quite .12 in my opinion. All in all, this route is definitely full on and CLASSIC! Nice work gents!
By Andy Jacobsen
Mar 3, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Sooooooooo good. One of my all-time lcc favorites.
By Arthur
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Managed to onsite this the other night. I'd say 11c/d for me but I think if you get pumped on steep climbing or don't read that exit sequence correctly it'd feel quite a bit harder. But all in all this was amazing in every way, position, appearance, flow, and thus I present it with my personal rating of QualDog ++ aka QD++.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Jul 14, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Mad qual brah!
By Derek West Newman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 6, 2015

Hardest 5.11 I've ever done, but I think the grade should stay the same.

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