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Spearhead this week?
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Jul 3, 2011
I'm thinking of climbing North Ridge on Spearhead (weather permitting) wednesday and was wondering if anyone knows what the conditions are like. I'm fairly new to alpine climbing. April23
From Boulder
Joined Jul 13, 2008
0 points
Jul 3, 2011
I was hoping to do either the flying buttress spearhead or petit grepon on Wednesday. Martin Harris
Joined Jan 3, 2016
95 points
Jul 4, 2011
Lots of snow on all of the alpine approaches in the Park from what I hear. My friend did the Petit a few weeks ago. If you are willing to do the slog, then it will be worth it as you won't have the usual crowds. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,230 points
Jul 4, 2011
How long of a slog are we talking Martin Harris
Joined Jan 3, 2016
95 points
Jul 8, 2011
Sorry, folks...

Official report from Kristen Moody, who handles special permits for the park says that anything above 10 is still deep, wet, and sloggish. Particularly the east side of the park.

Lumpy is still lookin' good at this point...
Top Rope Hero
From Was Estes Park, now homeless
Joined Jan 6, 2009
990 points
Jul 8, 2011
Kristen might not know everything....


Rock Climbing Photo: Joe on the crux of the barb(10-) 7-4-11
Joe on the crux of the barb(10-) 7-4-11
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
1,645 points
Jul 8, 2011
Phil, sssshhhh.

Also, glad to see you got out on your days off.
David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
140 points
Jul 8, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam on ATO.
Adam on ATO.


On 4th pitch of All Two Obvious (July 3, 2011).

The approach is snowy but doable.
Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Joined Feb 26, 2006
825 points
Jul 8, 2011
bring a change of socks, and give 'er! the snow can in fact help out quite a bit this time of year. As in making the descents easier! That being said, this is THE snowiest summer I have seen in 10 years of living up here. justin dubois
From Estes Park
Joined Jan 2, 2001
475 points
Jul 28, 2011
How was the climb? I plan on doing the North Ridge in about a week, how was the hike/approach? Does anyone know if you need to buy a permit to bivy at the base of Spearhead? Thanks, any beta will be much appreciated! rickpat
From Boulder, Co
Joined Apr 4, 2011
0 points
Jul 29, 2011
Indeed, a permit is needed to bivy in the Park... at least legally. Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
35 points
Jul 29, 2011
rickpat wrote:
How was the climb? I plan on doing the North Ridge in about a week, how was the hike/approach? Does anyone know if you need to buy a permit to bivy at the base of Spearhead? Thanks, any beta will be much appreciated!


It's a long hike, past black lake. And yes on the bivy. IMO you should bivy legally and support the park. It's an easy process.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
105 points
Jul 29, 2011
Do you need to reserve a bivy permit or can you get one on your way into the park? Derek W
Joined Jun 27, 2008
0 points
Jul 29, 2011
rickpat wrote:
How was the climb? I plan on doing the North Ridge in about a week, how was the hike/approach? Does anyone know if you need to buy a permit to bivy at the base of Spearhead? Thanks, any beta will be much appreciated!


Just did the barb yesterday. Did the hike in with only tennis shoes and it was fine much of the snow has melted out there is just a little bit left on trail up from Black Lake to Spearhead but boots are not required. Route is perfectly dry and in great shape. Have fun!
DavidHH
From Parker, Colorado
Joined May 11, 2006
1,655 points
Jul 29, 2011
Wehling wrote:
Do you need to reserve a bivy permit or can you get one on your way into the park?


Usually you don't need to reserve one, I've always gotten the one I wanted when the day of. The only problem is either way you have to go in person to the main office outside of estes during normal business hours. This is a super pain if you want to bivy at the diamond on a Friday night after work, since you have to drive further than the Long's trailhead and make it there before they close.
David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
140 points
Jul 30, 2011
Thanks everyone for the input. I'll let you know how it goes! rickpat
From Boulder, Co
Joined Apr 4, 2011
0 points


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