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Spear of Fear 

WI5 PG13

Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 80', Grade II
Original: WI5 PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Season: winter, cold winter
Page Views: 3,822
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Feb 6, 2007

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Spear of Fear in WI 4+ condition.


Classic route and can be quite reasonable climbing if the beehive cone is solid (WI 4-ish) and the pillar is short. Crux may be finding the route in solid enough condition to climb with the cone connected to the upper tube pillar. Sees much direct sunlight, so, will only form in very cold temperatures. Usually has water flow down the tube, so, take care to not break through. First approach pitch (WI 3-ish) can be walked around to the right, if sunlight damaging the climb might be an issue and you need to get the hurry on. Best done early before the heat of the day. Stays in shade before around 9am or so.


Spear of Fear is a seldom forming free standing ice climb located left of Slip Slidin' in Straight Canyon off the road into Joe's Valley. Its about 1.5 miles from the reservoir.


Ice screws for pro. Anchor is a couple of dead fall trees over the stream course. Rappel back to base of cone and walk off, or down the bottom end of the climb (staying in the canyon) and down the low angle first pitch from another tree anchor.

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By Tea
Jan 8, 2008

THE Joes Classic in my opinion. Pick your day wisely though, as it gets lots of sun, evidenced by the crazy califlowering on the base of the sometimes detached pillar. A wild route. Rap off cedars to the right of the top out...look for slings.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 8, 2008

Kelly Chamberlain and I did this today. The slog in, even with snow shoes, was horrendous. Should be better for the next party. The Pillar is in WI5 or so conditions... gear is real sparse on the cauliflowering and some big pieces did break. Approaching the pillar is getting thin in one spot. From the looks of the snow pack at the top I was guessing no one had been there this year... if so, it was a while ago. Not to many people make the trip to this canyon, so you get it to yourself. Get there fast.

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