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Spear of Destiny 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Brandon W, Taylor Skokan, Paul Bucher
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 3,052
Submitted By: paul bucher on May 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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skyler getting at it

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Climb the big chimney between the tower and main wall with crazy body bridge and stem moves. Clean, classic, great fun. Crux seems to be at the last bolt leaving the wall and getting on to the tower. All day shade. Easy to top rope after you get a rope up. Comfortable belay. Must do tower and minimum gear is going to make this one a favorite.


The approach trail takes you up under the giant roofs. The tower becomes obvious on your left the closer you get to the main wall.


Quickdraws, 8 bolts, 3-bomber-bolt anchor.

Photos of Spear of Destiny Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: stylin
Rock Climbing Photo: In the crack
In the crack
Rock Climbing Photo: drake
Rock Climbing Photo: spear of destiny
spear of destiny
Rock Climbing Photo: on top
on top
Rock Climbing Photo: taylor on the ffa
taylor on the ffa
Rock Climbing Photo: working the fa
working the fa
Rock Climbing Photo: spear of destiny tower
spear of destiny tower

Comments on Spear of Destiny Add Comment
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By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Aug 12, 2012

i just talked to some folks (down at super crack) who had done the route and felt it was harder than 5.8. they said 5.9+. they felt there should be more good holds for 5.8 and the body bridge moves were a bit much for 5.8 as well.
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Oct 17, 2012

A really unique route with a cool summit. We found the climbing to be a little unnerving because of the unique style (full body stemming). Felt more like 5.9
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Dec 9, 2012

four friends climbed it 12/5/12 and all said 5.9. so, done deal, changed it to 5.9
By Peter Blank
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Apr 28, 2013

Wow! The spear is amazing!
Thanks for all your contributions to the area guys.
By gregsmiller
From: Louisville
Sep 24, 2013

exciting!! 5.7 G... not any harder than 2nd pitch of honeymooners chimney. You can chimney and stem the whole way... my partner who is 5'2 was able to do the same.. no body bridging needed. Look through the base of the summit block as you head to the anchor!
By Skyler Penrod
Apr 8, 2014

Finally got on this today. This is not my style and left me feeling slightly insecure in several spots, but I don't think this is any harder than 5.8. You could make it harder no problem, but I think that all the moves are there and it is really well protected. Definitely a route for someone trying to break into this style of climbing.
By Brian Pappas
From: silverthorne CO
Apr 15, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

What an amazing route.Thanks for putting up.
By Izzy K.
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2016

This was my first chimney climb on lead and it was AMAZING! I hyperventilated my way up, but it's fairly easy and very well protected. A must do if you've made the approach to this area.

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