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Speaking Fire 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Brendan1 on Sep 2, 2014

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Shaking out near the top

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Begin from a boat on some jugs at the base of the arete. Continue up on some very small crimps on the orange face, and make a difficult, technical leftward traverse on more crimps (crux) to reach a jug around the other side of the arete. Continue up the arete on large holds and pull an exciting move off a perfect three finger pocket up high, then take it to a ledge at the top.


From the obvious amphitheater where the "Movie Screen Project" is located, continue towards the end of Long point, passing the buttress of Blood Trail (12b) and Porter for Recorder (11c). About 100 yards past these climbs is a prominent orange overhanging arete, which gives way to a blank looking, tiered white overhang on its left side. This route follows the arete to a ledge at the top of the cliff.


The water below is your pro.

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By shawn mccauley
Sep 5, 2014

Jeez! This is retarded. First off I think the basic ethic of twenty+ years at the lake need to be accounted for and appreciated. You wait until the water is down and do it from the GROUND to the top. Not half way up or in some cases 2/3rds of the way up. People who climb out of a boat and rush to the web to post FA's need to "sac up" and climb the whole route. These are just L.A.M.E. ( Look At ME attempts to spew about themselves. Let's reverse this asinine logic here and say someone gets passed the first 3 bolts of a project and then raps down. Is this a first ascent. No! And neither is this crap of only climbing the top half! ! If this lake had water year round I'd give it to you but that is not the case. Here lately there seems to be a disturbing trend of climbing the generally easier top half of a route at the lake and claiming FA's. And in some even more disturbing accounts people have even been bolting the top half of routes and saying "with plans to visit the bottom half later" in route descriptions, or rating them based on what would happen if you soloed a bolted route and fell off(Stumbling Dice12.R ??????-Fegler?) WTF! The route may be totally awesome (including the bottom half), but lets strive to keep at least the basic standards alive here and not dumb stuff down to the lowest denominator. Now I'm off to climb the last pitch of the Dawn Wall Project to claim an "FA" before Tommy Caldwell does, and then I'll rate it 5.10X because if you solo it and fall, you might get hurt.
Common sense people...........
By Brendan1
Sep 9, 2014

Wow people. I think people seriously misinterpret my words. I definitely was not meaning to be pretentious or make myself sound like some tough guy. That was supposed to be a lighthearted suggestion. You can climb the route however you want. Toprope it for all I care. Its climbing. There are no rules, just having fun. In fact, I'll remove the comment just to avoid further confusion. As for ethics, the New has always been a place where multiple ethics were practiced side by side with little dispute. There are rap bolted sport routes, head point style trad routes, and routes put up onsight, free solo. I see no reason why routes can't be put up above the water. The way I look at it, I wouldn't bolt a crack, because it already takes pro, so likewise, I wouldn't bolt a route over the lake if the water is deep enough, because the pro is already there. So I especially don't think there is anything wrong with this ethic, especially since the ascent was done solo, onsight, which, the last time I checked, was never "bad style" or "bad ethics" or whatever you want to call it. So just to be clear...I'm not trying to act all hardcore or something. If I thought I was hardcore, I would have graded it 5.13 or something.

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