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Spatial Relations 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pamela Shanti Pack
Season: fall, summer, spring
Page Views: 4,475
Submitted By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jun 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Spatial Relations.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


The route is accessed by a 5.5 slab pitch and then goes through a 35' OW roof.


This is 50 yards left of "Pooh Corner."


P1: green Alien, small stopper, gear anchor.

P2: Singles from red Camalot through BD #6, with 2 or 3 #5s and 2 #6s.

Single rope rappel from a 2 bolt anchor.

Comments on Spatial Relations Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Jun 11, 2010

Am I having deja vu, or was this route submission and comments added to MP a year or two ago?
By Mike D
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 29, 2011

I tried this climb a few years ago and got nowhere. Learning the rating helps me understand why, and seeing the photos has started me on inverted sit-ups. Congrats to those who sent it, it sure is cool looking.
By Handsome B. Wonderful
May 9, 2011

Okay...I've got to say it. I have been out of the loop for a while, but I'm like 99% certain that John Varco did the FA of this thing. What's the deal. If I'm wrong then sorry. Am I wrong?
By John McNamee
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 27, 2011

I've deleted some comments that were irrelevant.
By Wade Griffith
Nov 4, 2011

That flake to the left of this thing looks wild. Wonder how solid it is?
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 10, 2014

Pamela is sick strong. I imagine her offwith curriculum vitae is unparalleled by any other female in the world.
By Warrior
From: Rock City, GA
Jan 30, 2016

Wade - not very solid. You could bolt it and still die IMO (more accurately, kill your belayer I suppose) moves if you start to barely reef on it.

Regarding the upper comment, yeah Varco a very good offwidth climber, but this was a hair beyond his paygrade, at least for FA. Maybe he repeated it, I don't know....

Many people vied for this FA. Scarpelli, Varco, Takeda, et al. This route was erroneously labeled as being in Tuolumne in an old Alpinist mag.

There's about 2 feet of this route that are very fiendish (the rest can be done at .11-12 minus-ish IMO)....

...but that's probably most Voo routes in a nutshell....
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 9, 2016

Don't let the very short stature of this route fool you, it is a very technical little beast. Even the slab was a bit surprising, it looks like 5.5 from the ground but is around 5.7 (according to the FA). An offset cam is nice for the slab. Pamela told me stories about people falling out of the crux and getting knocked out, either by swinging back up into the roof and hitting their heads or getting a soft deck on the slab. Figuring out the gear for the crux and not letting it get in your way was the deal on this one. I fell and hung all over the pivot on the onsight lead attempt. I probably shouldn't have tried this as my first Voo OW, but I think Pamela wanted a good laugh. It was much, much easier to clean the route on TR when not worrying about bashing your head into the roof. To me, the toe hanging felt harder than that on Forever War but much shorter and with a physically easier but more technical pivot. Scary fun!!

Bring small stuff for the approach pitch, and a #1. The second pitch I used a #1, #3, #4, #5, #5, and #6. The #6 is the pain in the ass piece to protect the pivot and easier topout, placing it in the wrong spot can ruin your day!

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