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Sparrow 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Terry Rollerson, George Loset, 1970
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

If you have done Over the Rainbow this older classic slab route is worth a try. You are guessing correctly that since it was done in 1970 it is sparsely bolted.

P1. Start same as Diedre and Rainbow, where you pass the horizontal crack Over the Rainbow goes straight up the greasy slab, Sparrow goes a bit more to the right and follows the path of least resistance up ramp like right traverse heading for a lonely bolt, clip and head for a small tree about level with the bolted belay of Rainbow on a faint horizontal dyke.

P2. About 40-50' above belay head left toward small trees( if you go up slab it is a run-out 10b variation) cross several overlaps angle back right toward big tree island and left facing corner.

P3. Either go straight up using water pockets, or descend corner( original route) maybe 20' till you can go up obvious crack which peters out to a tricky slippery slab move up to big tree covered ledge.

P4. It can be confusing here which bolted line to follow. If you took the original route below it is the first line of bolts you come to going up the ledge to your left, but maybe hard to spot bolts. The 2nd bolt line is the Delicious Dimples ( 10c) with more newer bolts. If you go all the way to your left you will hit the Over the Rainbow bolts.

P5. Wander up slab passing 2 bolts in like 100', going back and forth following path of least resistance till you see some crescent cracks but belay below on bolt and gear.

P6. Traverse left till you come to a good crack on right facing corner passing the Dimples route, if you find yourself going up a steep slab you may be on Dimples( 10c). Go up this crack, as it peters out go out onto slab on the left, go up slab till you can belay on bolts below a left facing corner. McLane calls this pitch 10a, Bourdon calls it 5.8, I guess I would say it is 5.9.

P7. Follow corner up and go right out onto white slab , comes out near base of Boomstick crack.

Location 

Large tree ledge where Diedre starts.A good approach that will get you warmed up for slabs would be the Bottom Line, 5.8 , 3 pitch starting right of the apron connector trail.

Protection 

standard rack to 2".Lots of slings even for bolts to help with wandering nature of the route.


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