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> Mary's Bust Area
> Mary's Bust - left bu…
Sparky's Cooler
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.2 from 14
votes
Routes in Mary's Bust - left buttress
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Beak, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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College Fund T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Devil's Backbone, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Quartz Groove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Run Out Of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sparky's Cooler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sympathy for the Devil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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That's What The Rope Is For T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 310 ft (94 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Al Simons/Ned Sparks/Kevin Ovenstone |
| Page Views: | 4,152 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | allen simons on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
From the dirt parking lot 9.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube look uphill and north west. The South Buttress/Slab is uphill 60 yards. Bushwhack up and right to the base of the climb, about 30 yards left the the gully that separates the North and South rocks of Mary's Bust. An alternate approach that has a better trail takes the main trail from the road that access the more vertical buttress and follow it around to the left or south till you get to the gully between the two main rocks. Angle up and left to the base of The Beak and Sparky's Cooler.
This is listed as 10a but is 5.7 or so if you do pitch 1a instead of 2a.Pitch 1A. Start under the bolt that is 15 feet up. Go up, traverse left past the bolt and up through a slot. Go a few more feet up and left, then traverse right to a belay (40 feet off the ground). This belay is on a ledge with a wedged boulder and a dead tree trunk. There are no bolt anchors.
Pitch 1B. Direct start. 15 feet right of the bolt for 1A. Climb up past one bolt to the bulging overhang and go up/left, then back right (10a) past 4 more bolts to a two bolt anchor which is 25 feet up and right from the start of pitch two below. A 1 1/2 to 3 inch cam may be beneficial in a crack behind and overlap/bulge between bolt 1 and 2. 90'.
Pitch 2. Follow the slanting seam up and right past a fixed pecker head and a lone bolt (5.5) to a bowl with 2 bolts (end of pitch 1B). Continue up the slot past two bolts (5.6). Wander up and slightly left past 3 more bolts (5.7) to a large ledge with 2 bolts and piton belay. 105'.
Pitch 3. From the anchors, go left and up 20 feet (5.7) past a lone bolt to a right-slanting, upward traverse behind the left side of the head wall (5.1) that ends with a 2 bolt anchor directly above the headwall crack on The Beak. The traverse takes gear to 4 inches but is easily climbed without gear. (One can toprope the crack 3rd pitch of The Beak from this anchor.) 110'.
Pitch 4. Move straight up the water slot stemming past 4 bolts (5.7), and then a bit of 5.3 to a two bolt anchor chain. 60'.
Rap off or walk of the the south. From here, you can hike left 50-60 yards to Moonlight Rock and Tick Rock.
This is listed as 10a but is 5.7 or so if you do pitch 1a instead of 2a.Pitch 1A. Start under the bolt that is 15 feet up. Go up, traverse left past the bolt and up through a slot. Go a few more feet up and left, then traverse right to a belay (40 feet off the ground). This belay is on a ledge with a wedged boulder and a dead tree trunk. There are no bolt anchors.
Pitch 1B. Direct start. 15 feet right of the bolt for 1A. Climb up past one bolt to the bulging overhang and go up/left, then back right (10a) past 4 more bolts to a two bolt anchor which is 25 feet up and right from the start of pitch two below. A 1 1/2 to 3 inch cam may be beneficial in a crack behind and overlap/bulge between bolt 1 and 2. 90'.
Pitch 2. Follow the slanting seam up and right past a fixed pecker head and a lone bolt (5.5) to a bowl with 2 bolts (end of pitch 1B). Continue up the slot past two bolts (5.6). Wander up and slightly left past 3 more bolts (5.7) to a large ledge with 2 bolts and piton belay. 105'.
Pitch 3. From the anchors, go left and up 20 feet (5.7) past a lone bolt to a right-slanting, upward traverse behind the left side of the head wall (5.1) that ends with a 2 bolt anchor directly above the headwall crack on The Beak. The traverse takes gear to 4 inches but is easily climbed without gear. (One can toprope the crack 3rd pitch of The Beak from this anchor.) 110'.
Pitch 4. Move straight up the water slot stemming past 4 bolts (5.7), and then a bit of 5.3 to a two bolt anchor chain. 60'.
Rap off or walk of the the south. From here, you can hike left 50-60 yards to Moonlight Rock and Tick Rock.
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