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Sparky the Drillhead 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eden Masters, Scott Ayers 1991
Season: Afternoon sun
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: john durr on Jun 14, 2011

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Description 

A very nice off vertical technical face climb. Great rock and well protected.

Pull past the first two bolts to great holds then another crux at the last bolt where you can decide to make a long move left or a couple of crimps right.

Location 

This is the leftmost route accessed from the belay ledge with bolts used for Frank and For Patricia.

Protection 

Seven bolts - lower off anchor hooks.


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By BAd
Jun 1, 2017
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Okay, maybe way out of line here. Heavy gravity. Whimpy guns. But that final move seemed WAY harder than 10a. I'm thinking 10c. Did something break? Would love to hear from someone who's done it recently. I just botched all over it. (Does the walk of shame....)

BAd

Follow up: Went back, got it clean. My partner and I both think that last move is about 10c. The bolt is right there, so no real risk, but it ain't 10a.

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