Sparks Wall Rock Climbing
the great wood work.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A reasonably good cliff you can be alone at, with a goodly number of good routes! 5 routes on this cliff face North, and about 10 more face Southeast. The latter getting sunlight from sunrise to nearly sunset in the fall and winter. The Bloom book mentions that some of these routes are dusty for lack of travel, as this cliff is relatively unvisited. In reality, while this may be a contributor, the main cause is that the rock is softer here than in some other areas and yields more dust to rain and wind. Still, some routes are quite good, and as Bloom implies, you are likely to have them all to yourself. Of the routes I tried, I found "Go Sparky Go" to be the best for its unique quality of going almost horizontal on a flat vertical wall, "Low Spark" the best for its length (P1: 155', P2:80'), "Sparkling Schnitzel" good all around despite being an OffWidth, and "Sparkling Gefilte Fish" a good warm up. The 12's at Sparks Wall are rumored to be quite good, but I did not get on any of them.
To get to Sparks Wall, turn off of the main road left, as for Bridger Jack, Pistol Whipped, Way Rambo, 4X4 Wall, Technicolor, etc...
Not your odometer when turning, this will become useful.
Cross the creek after less than a mile & continue back towards The Cottonwoods area, staying left at all possible right turns and passing Technicolor Wall. After you have gone 3.8 to 3.9 miles, the cliff-band on your right will come very close to the road. A hogback of land falls from this cliff to a rib of raised land near the road, but just before you reach this, there is a pulloff with a jeep road cutting off right, back sharply north in reverse to your direction of travel. Exit the road here and park.
The trail is very faint and easy to loose, but not too strenuous or long, regardless. It should take 20-40 minutes to arrive depending on your rack size and fitness.
To hike up to the cliff, look for a sweeping roof at the center of the SE face, spanning perhaps 50 feet with 3 end-to-end sections at slightly different elevations from the ground. This will be your point of arrival at the cliff. Note downward from there a break in the rotten red cliff-band, just left of a very large boulder perched at its edge. This is also important. Now look down from there to the chossy, dirty "cone" of soil just right of there.
Start hiking by going in your former direction of travel, South. Get on to the first hogback or "rib" of earth and start making your war up to the right side of the cone of earth previously mentioned. By now you should have picked up a trail. Go right up it's side on some flat terrain that is foot-packed past 1 rock cairn. A the top, walk up and left behind a big boulder and a small tree just past the cairn to follow the trail. You will arrive at more flat-ish switch backs, which will wind up and left towards the perched boulder. Go left of the boulder and up to the base of the cliff, arriving at the base-trail just left of the route "Low Spark." The trail at the base of the cliff is surprisingly easy to travel and flat.
Weather station 11.3 miles from here
31 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sparks Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sparks Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sparks Wall:
Skraps 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Rowdy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Scenic Line 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Unknown 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Low Spark 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Old Sparky 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Sparks Wall
Go Sparky Go 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Sparks Wall
If you liked Way Rambo, here is another climb for you, or if you wanted a good primer for that, here it is. This is the obvious climb on the outside wall of a large left-facing corner. The crack starts mellow down low on good hands and gets harder for a spot that is wide and has a loose flake back in it which is tempting to grab. (#4 camalot optional here.) From a good jam above the wide spot (#3 friend) the climb starts into a 15 foot crux sequence with thin hands in an offset, and ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
treed lightly an respect this great place.
the wood work inside the dwelling is so cool look ...
the sweet ruins to the right of the wall. be very ...
By chris Kalous
Dec 4, 2006
Sparkling Spurs and Low Spark (1st pitch) both received new anchors in 2005 courtesy of Climbing Magazine's ARI program.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2009
We had the area to ourselves on a perfect Oct. weekend. The route Scenic Line (in Bloom's guide) was worth doing (it's a right-to-left dihedral substantially to the right of the listed climbs that takes mostly #1 Camalots opening to #2s)--I would add it but don't have pics.
From: San Juans, CO
Nov 5, 2009
Alternate approach beta: Go 2.5 miles past the 4x4 cattlegaurd and park at the turnout with the big boulders. Find the cairned trail at the boulders and follow it to the crag.
By Princess Mia
May 6, 2012
Park as per description above, directly below the cliff at an old campsite. This is exactly where the road spur cuts sharply back. In the back of the campsite is a nice new and improved trail. Pretty steep but easy to follow. It comes up right by Low Spark.