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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat Callis, Jim Kanzler, October 1968
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 9,744
Submitted By: Sarge on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
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Crux on the second pitch. Amazing hand and fist ja...


This route is amazing. The crux is on the second pitch. For 5.8 it is very exposed but well worth the hike and effort. I can't say that there is anything bad about this route. To find the route look for the "tallest and most prominent clean rib/buttress on formation." There are two sets of double cracks that divide the west face of this rib.

P1. (5.6) Climb right through the middle of the buttress along a beautiful 2' wide groove ending on an ample ledge. Bolted anchor. (50')

P2. In this superb pitch, follow the righthand set of double cracks past two small overhangs (crux) then end at the top of the rib. Sling tree for anchor. (150')

Descent: Walk off either side of the buttress.


Sparerib is its own formation.


Bring a standard Alpine rack. Build own anchors.

Photos of Sparerib Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sparerib
Rock Climbing Photo: Recognized some friends on Sparerib from midway up...
Recognized some friends on Sparerib from midway up...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sick Climb!
Sick Climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: T near the top of Sparerib's ridiculously awesome ...
T near the top of Sparerib's ridiculously awesome ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gear at the summit to keep rope out of rope-eating...
BETA PHOTO: Gear at the summit to keep rope out of rope-eating...
Rock Climbing Photo: Spare Rib Pitch Two
BETA PHOTO: Spare Rib Pitch Two
Rock Climbing Photo: Sparerib second pitch.
Sparerib second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spare Rib
Spare Rib

Comments on Sparerib Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2017
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jul 18, 2007

Is there no longer a set of bolts at the top of the first pitch?
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 2, 2007

Can be done in one LONG pitch. It isn't 225 feet as the poster says.
By Tater Tot
From: Custer, SD
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There is a bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch.
By Ty Gittins
From: bozeman
Mar 29, 2010

the tree visible at the top of the rib is good for slinging (double length handy) for the second pitch belay.
By Bud Martin
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 11, 2010

To make a the first pitch more difficult, climb the two cracks to the right of the 5.6 crack that is the standard first pitch.
By W.S.
From: Montana
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The second pitch is brilliant. I had to remind myself to place pro, it's easy to forget when you're having so much fun. Probably the best 5.8 in the area.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 24, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Anchoring to that skinny tree at the top is the best. I love looking at from afar anywhere in the canyon, totally worth the long hot hike up to the route.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 25, 2013

The crux of this route is the hike.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Cool route. Not sure where the 5.8 is.

FS OS trailed a 70m for the 2nd and there was plenty.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Oct 31, 2014

Absolutely superlative. Agree with Ty about the hike. It will feel 5.8 if you have never jammed or toe-cammed before. If you have, it is a completely golden, safe yet exciting outing. P2 is in my top 3 single pitches of all time.
By Joanna Spindler
From: Ouray, CO/ Telluride, CO
Jul 23, 2015

Sparerib is a fantastic climb that will feel cruiser for anyone with crack experience. Perfect for lady hands/ small hands, super protectable the whole way, and wildly aesthetic. Great anchor chains & a nice belay tree at the top. Do it!
By Ted Lange
Apr 9, 2016

It is worth noting that the top of the Spare Rib buttress is one of the few places in Gallatin Canyon where you can get cell reception. I got one bar and was able to send texts.
By Mitch Alexander
From: SLO, CA
Aug 28, 2016

Found the 5.8 in the #4 sized crack, very glad to have brought one.
By Matt Wenger
From: Bozeman
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the best routes overall in the Canyon, and the best 5.8. Bring a #4 for the crux. Mostly 5.6-7 with one crux move of 5.8. Someone put in a set of glue in bolts at the top of the 2nd pitch. Those were not there last year if I remember correctly. For how much use it gets, might not be a bad thing, reduce the wear and tear on the tree up there.

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