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|Location:||45.4196, -111.2293 View Map Incorrect?|
|Administrators:||grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Sarge on May 15, 2007 with updates from Ted Lange and 2 more|
|Comments on Sparerib Area||Add Comment|
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Oct 10, 2008
In the early 80's I was filming a friend taking whippers off the first roof on the second pitch of Spare Rib for my sophomore film school project. My climbing buddy had placed a Friend in just below the roof and would climb a couple of body lengths above the cam then jump. I would film the resulting 15 or 20 footer. Then I would move or jug for a different angle on the fall and he would repeat the process.
The forth time he jumped his piece just below the roof popped as did his next one. He ended up stopping just as he landed on his belayer at the top of the first pitch. His belayer, a film school student and first time climber/belayer, managed to stop the fall, but promptly leaned over and puked he was so stunned and frightened. He, then, insisted upon immediately rapping to the ground.
As neither of the other two film students present would agree to take over the belay duties in spite of my insisting "it was safe", our filming was over for the day.
The climber... suffered only minor cuts and abrasions after his 75 foot plummet.
Did I get the big ride on film?... No I was jugging the line to get a higher angle and he had jumped, "just for the hell of it", when the gear failed. One of the roped stoppers on his harness did smack me in the head as he whistled by, however. The film camera was not damaged.
By Mitch Alexander
From: SLO, CA
Aug 28, 2016
Since everyone keeps mentioning how the approach is the crux but no one says how long I will: about an hour from car to base of route at easy pace.
Approach beta: Park at large pullout just past the 35mph bridge. Walk across road and follow trail to first fork, left ends within eyesight and right goes up a steep berm, go down the center. Follow for 10ish minutes until trail forks again, go right (currently there is a climbing access sign on the tree). Go up switchbacks for 30-40 minutes, easy to find.