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Sparerib Area

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Mr Friendly  T,S 
Piecrust Promise T,TR 
Prime Rib T 
Sparerib T 
Zig Zag T 

Sparerib Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 45.4196, -111.2293 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,964
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Sarge on May 15, 2007  with updates from Ted Lange and 1 more
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View of parking area from summit of Spare Rib. Zoo...

Description 

The sparerib area is part of the Gallatin Canyon Climbing area. This area can be crowded (for Montana standards) but not to anyone else. The hike getting there limits some people. Good ole climbing trail.

Getting There 

From the main riverside trail at a 7' boulder take a path to the right/east and ascend the hill past a smaller blocky formation called the Glass Catcher and a larger one between Glass Catcher and Black line Buttress. Continue past these rocks to the south side of black line buttress. These directions only make sense if you know the rest of the area. See "The Rock Climber's Guide to Montana" by Randal Green

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sparerib Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sparerib Area:
Sparerib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 225'   
Zig Zag   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Mr Friendly    5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sparerib Area

Featured Route For Sparerib Area
Rock Climbing Photo: The route

Mr Friendly 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  MT : Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area
A very cool, long pitch starting with arête moves past 4 bolts and then ventures onto the face with interesting traversing sections past many bolts and a 1.5" cam placement in a horizontal. Ends at a two bolt anchor. Rappel EXACTLY 30 meters to a ledge. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Comments on Sparerib Area Add Comment
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By Jimbo
Oct 10, 2008
In the early 80's I was filming a friend taking whippers off the first roof on the second pitch of Spare Rib for my sophomore film school project. My climbing buddy had placed a Friend in just below the roof and would climb a couple of body lengths above the cam then jump. I would film the resulting 15 or 20 footer. Then I would move or jug for a different angle on the fall and he would repeat the process.
The forth time he jumped his piece just below the roof popped as did his next one. He ended up stopping just as he landed on his belayer at the top of the first pitch. His belayer, a film school student and first time climber/belayer, managed to stop the fall, but promptly leaned over and puked he was so stunned and frightened. He, then, insisted upon immediately rapping to the ground.
As neither of the other two film students present would agree to take over the belay duties in spite of my insisting "it was safe", our filming was over for the day.
The climber... suffered only minor cuts and abrasions after his 75 foot plummet.
Did I get the big ride on film?... No I was jugging the line to get a higher angle and he had jumped, "just for the hell of it", when the gear failed. One of the roped stoppers on his harness did smack me in the head as he whistled by, however. The film camera was not damaged.
By Mitch Alexander
Aug 28, 2016
Since everyone keeps mentioning how the approach is the crux but no one says how long I will: about an hour from car to base of route at easy pace.

Approach beta: Park at large pullout just past the 35mph bridge. Walk across road and follow trail to first fork, left ends within eyesight and right goes up a steep berm, go down the center. Follow for 10ish minutes until trail forks again, go right (currently there is a climbing access sign on the tree). Go up switchbacks for 30-40 minutes, easy to find.