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Spanky's Area

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Birch Wall 
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Sunshine City 

Spanky's Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,772'
Location: 44.12842, -73.72332 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,999
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Aug 22, 2009
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Description 

On the north side (right side, heading into Keene Valley) of Route 73 just minutes from Malfunction Junction, Spanky's Wall sits quietly amongst the large talus slopes.

A host of moderate sport and modern trad routes are the draw of this stellar little crag. The far right end ("Sunshine City" area) is a great place to spend a mellow day leading bolted climbs, while the extreme left end ("The Birch Wall") has a handful of hard mixed lines to thrash on.

Black flies can be fairly bad here, as this cliff sits directly above a swampy area. This is, however, a wonderful choice for hot, humid days, as you can chase the shade.

Getting There 

Is is located exactly 2.6 miles from the Malfunction Junction when heading toward Chapel Pond, or 1.5 miles heading from Chapel Pond toward Malfunction Junction. Park at a small pullout on the north side of Route 73. Hike down the hill, cross the stream (easy crossing), then upstream for a short way until you reacha trail that heads up to the Sunshine City area of the crags.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Spanky's Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Spanky's Area:
WMP   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine City
Bee Hold   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine City
Freak Gasoline Fight Accident   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Sunshine City
Raw Tips   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Sunshine City
Diamonds Aren't Forever    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine City
Chocoholic   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Birch Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Spanky's Area

Featured Route For Spanky's Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhiannon almost finished with Bee Hold

Bee Hold 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Sunshine City
Climb up past 2 bolts in a black, sometimes wet, right facing corner to a ledge. Follow the line of bolts, trending left up the face. A great route with fun movement throughout. The bolt spacing keeps the ledge in play for several clips afterwards. An exciting lead if 5.8 is your level....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Comments on Spanky's Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike McLean
Jul 31, 2011
The parking lot has a green road sign in it reading '73 1201 142'. If you see this, you're at the correct place.
By clara s
Sep 2, 2014
the sign actually says:

73
1201
1412

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