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Spanky 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Unpublished; FFA Tod Anderson, 1997
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 2, 2002

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Description 

Spanky was one of the first routes completed in the modern sweep through Ralston Buttes. Begin 100 or so feet right of and a bit down slope of the A-frame roof (The Viper, aka The Wishbone). While only 60 or so ft long, Spanky delivers enough cruxy climbing that its name is well deserved. It is hard off the deck and delivers several back to back 5.12- moves in the middle. The rock is a bit friable in places and very crimpy as well. An excellent technical problem in its own right, Spanky also offers the best approach to the second pitch (The Neighborhood) which can be approached from the left as well.

Protection 

Seven draws and a rope.


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