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(4) Mud Pile
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Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: TR Ryan Lawson 9/1997, FFA Thomas Emde 1999
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Erik Keever on May 11, 2015

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route ultimately moves across or up 5 distinctly different (if small) faces, with a crack, two aretes and a mini roof between them. Start following the bolt line; Once you clip the upper bolt on the second face, traverse right until you are past both aretes, then go up to meet the bulge. Crank on jugs, then enjoy the finish on low-angle jugs.

The Watts guide gives it a .10c; I would guess these are the moves going up the first vertical face. Calls more for technique and balance than strength. He also calls it a "minefield of petrifying knobs" but it appears to have cleaned up nicely: I blew none on lead, but also heeded the warning and moved gingerly.

Location 

Either walk south across the scree from Koala, or hike uphill from the boulder field along the Mudpile's north face. Begin on the slab downhill of the unmistakable shoulder-width chimney and left of a blank overhang

Protection 

9 bolts plus fixed anchor


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By Jon Rhoderick
May 20, 2015

haha what an oddly named obscure route for the 700th route in the database!