REI Community
(4) Mud Pile
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blacklisted S 
Carla The Stripper S 
Edge of the World S 
Jacobs-Strain Line S 
Kid Packed Minivan From Hell S 
Loose Hookers T 
Lusty Lady S 
Marsupial Madness S 
Marsupials Traverse T,S 
Mini Half Dome S 
My Name is Mud  S 
Rampage S 
Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole S 
Truth Assassin S 
Tuff Shit S 
Xenophobe S 

Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: TR Ryan Lawson 9/1997, FFA Thomas Emde 1999
Page Views: 144
Submitted By: Erik Keever on May 11, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This route ultimately moves across or up 5 distinctly different (if small) faces, with a crack, two aretes and a mini roof between them. Start following the bolt line; Once you clip the upper bolt on the second face, traverse right until you are past both aretes, then go up to meet the bulge. Crank on jugs, then enjoy the finish on low-angle jugs.

The Watts guide gives it a .10c; I would guess these are the moves going up the first vertical face. Calls more for technique and balance than strength. He also calls it a "minefield of petrifying knobs" but it appears to have cleaned up nicely: I blew none on lead, but also heeded the warning and moved gingerly.


Either walk south across the scree from Koala, or hike uphill from the boulder field along the Mudpile's north face. Begin on the slab downhill of the unmistakable shoulder-width chimney and left of a blank overhang


9 bolts plus fixed anchor

Comments on Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Rhoderick
May 20, 2015

haha what an oddly named obscure route for the 700th route in the database!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About