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(s) Monkey Face
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Astro Monkey T 
Backbone, The S 
East Face T 
Just Do It S 
Monkey Off My Back S 
Monkey Space S 
North Face, The T 
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 
Northwest Passage (Free) T 
Pioneer Route T,S 
Rising Expectations T 
Spank the Monkey S 
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 
West Face (Aid) T 
West Face Variation T 
West Face Variation Direct T 

Spank The Monkey(Full) 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a R

Type:  Sport, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a R [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell - 2003
Page Views: 1,183
Submitted By: Ryan Palo on May 9, 2016

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The extension of Spank the Monkey provides an excellent challenge for anyone who enjoys exciting arete climbing. The route is similar to the bottom in both movement and bolting. Instead of climbing through easy terrain runout, you climb an overhanging, relentless, and very sharp arete runout. There are 3 bolts protecting the entire upper section. Like the bottom, you'll have a bolt at the hardest parts, but you'll be expected to climb 5.12 far above your last bolt.

With that said, Full Spank has some of the best arete movement around. It climbs through flawless welded purple tuff, featuring every arete trick in the book.


Use long slings on the two upper bolts. This puts the draw over the arete, rather than your rope.

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