REI Community
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Spank The Monkey 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Schlinkmann, Mateo Pee Pee and Carl Coy
Page Views: 3,104
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Apr 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Bill lugg starting up spank the monkey. The route...

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Steve Gardiner's guidebook says "Destined to become another short West face classic". INDEED! The first half of the pitch is a fun 5.8 hand crack that many consider "tricky"... and the second half is nothing short of incredible. Face moves and a thin crack in the dihedral really mix it up. Keep your head... the crux moves come in the final 20 feet.


The route is located two cracks left of Brokedown Palace.


RP's, two sets stoppers and BD Camalots to #3.

Photos of Spank The Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Bickford
Bob Bickford

Comments on Spank The Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By TomKingsbury
Oct 16, 2007

although the route looks grassy from below, you are actually climbing the crack on the right face, which is quite clean; and proves to be another tower classic!


on a side note, this is pitch one of layton kor's 'saber' route, first climbed in 1964
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A must do on the classic 5.10 tour of the Tower.
By CodyE
From: Utah
Aug 3, 2015

Great route with fun climbing, can be top roped with an 80 meter rope. This route is clean as of July 2015
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Sep 23, 2016

Unique route and interesting climbing. The climb doesn't look good from the ground, but it climbs way better than it looks. The bottom is a bit mungy and loose, but it is easy, so don't let that deter you from getting on this classic.

Anchor replaced by Cali Terveen and Taylor Lais on 10/22/16.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About