REI Community
Ancient Kingdom
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carmania T 
I Pee in Pools T 
Spanish Bayonet T 
Unsorted Routes:

Spanish Bayonet 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Lynn Hill, Roy McClenahan, Lary Stone & Jeff Sewell, April 1979
Page Views: 1,245
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Start of Spanish Bayonet: Carmania in the backgrou...


Crux moves past a bolt lead into the crack proper which eats up gear, particularly hexes. Gear belay and walk off or rap from anchors atop Carmania.

A hidden gem of the Indian Cove area that's worth the somewhat arduous approach. Three stars out of five.


The obvious splitter on the left side of the crag and left of the large corner system (Carmania).


bolt, pro to 3.5"

Photos of Spanish Bayonet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view...
Another view...
Rock Climbing Photo: classic climb, classic location
classic climb, classic location

Comments on Spanish Bayonet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vernon Stiefel
Dec 18, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very fine climb with one superfluous bolt at the start of the short traverse (solid TCU placements are adjacent to the bolt). Apparently the bolt was added after the FA.
By Jeff Sewell
Dec 18, 2003

Vern, you are correct. Lynn's lead was w/o bolt. An "R" start...
By The Gray Tradster
Dec 18, 2003
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this route a couple of years ago, and again last year. The key foothold has gone from a thought provoking C shaped smear to a larger square cut hold. Chipping?? Agreed that the bolt is not required and the gear placement more confidence inspiring than the bolt anyway. Great route though and well worth the hike.
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 12, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The "solid TCU placments" that Vern mentions are in a loose flake of rock which surely would break if fallen on repeatedly.
By The Gray Tradster
Feb 12, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The photos were ripped from Socalhotclimbs by an anonymous coward and are of Tom Martin leading, taken by Wendell Smith.

Permision granted to leave them.
By Phil Esra
Nov 29, 2011

The wall is pretty easy to spot--look for the "V" made by the two cracks. The route is the vertical crack, with the other crack splitting off to the left. High up on the south side of the canyon.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About