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Spaghetti & Chili 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Frank Avela and Jack Knox, May 1986
Page Views: 4,350
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 3, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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Clark on S&C.

Description 

This route ascends the middle of the SW face of Cyclops Rock -- to the right and around the corner if you're facing the Eye from the road.

Start on a right-facing ramp that is separate from the main face and ascends from the ground -- your belayer can find a nice comfortable seat between the base of the ramp and the main wall (which is extremely undercut at this point). From the top of the ramp, a few fun moves get you around and over a large rounded flake that opens to the left. Finally, move slightly to the left and ascend juggy plates to a two-bolt anchor.

Single rope rappel or walk-off to the east.

Protection 

Thin rack to around 2". Two-bolt anchor; can be backed up with a #2 camalot.


Photos of Spaghetti & Chili Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap cleaning Spaghetti & Chili (5.7)
Rap cleaning Spaghetti & Chili (5.7)
Rock Climbing Photo: This is such a fun move. It's only 5.7!
This is such a fun move. It's only 5.7!
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the flake is the crux
Getting into the flake is the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Spaghetti & Chili
Leading Spaghetti & Chili
Rock Climbing Photo: little top rope session
little top rope session
Rock Climbing Photo: Spaghetti and Chile - Starting the Crux
Spaghetti and Chile - Starting the Crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Jenny about to head up S & C on top rope...
Jenny about to head up S & C on top rope...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is the fun flake on "Spaghetti and Chill...
Here is the fun flake on "Spaghetti and Chill...

Comments on Spaghetti & Chili Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 10, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The lieback flake at the start is cleanly cleaved but the highlight is the steep handcrack finish shared with Penelope's Walk.
By Rock Sucker
Feb 19, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a fun climb. It can be top-roped if desired. Perhaps climb "The Eye" and rappel down "Spaghetti and Chili" and then top-rope it a few times for some quick climbing fun...
By Brian Reynolds
Feb 20, 2004

True, it's a fun finish. I climbed the route again recently at the end of a long day and was a little surprised -- I didn't remember the last few moves being quite so strenuous.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 6, 2005

We attempted this route on Sun 3rd April 2005, and was attacked by a large crow while on the final finger crack finish. Had to be lowered and then rappel down for our gear.

The bird has a nest in the cave to the right of the last crack, and presumably has some young it is protecting.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 16, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

May 06, no bird problems. The steep lieback at the beginning is the crux, protected by a .4 camalot. The top exit crack is as Chris said, very fun. One or two bomber .75 camalots protect this move. Inbetween these, protection was somewhat sparse, despite what appearences might suggest. However, the climbing was super easy in that area. The addition of a bolt just after the grey patina area, where the holds are still big but dubious and a bit runout, would probably not be taken for granted by the beginner/novice leader. Rap off with a 60m rope or walk down the back side.
By Jeff Scofield
From: Yorba Linda, CA
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super fun climb! Crux is getting off the ground and up on the flake with the lieback move and then the top traverse. The traverse is ever so slightly over hanging....From the flake to the traverse I didn't put any pro because super easy climbing...Probally not necessary but before I got up on the traverese I put a #4 BD Cam.
By Eric "Pig" Varley
From: Nipomo, CA
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun climb and can be very well protected. But since when did a 5.7 have a 5.9 crux? Getting out from under the flake and establishing the lieback stance is very tenuous. The last time I did a vertical 5.7 lieback, I had this little thing called foot holds. Whatever, J-tree ratings don't seem to mean anything anyway.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jan 14, 2014

anchor bolts have hangers only, as in no rap rings or chains. can clip and set up TR, but last person has to walk off
By Soulless Ginger
From: San bernardino
Dec 3, 2015

pretty simple once you get past the flake. like adam said, throw a .4 on the undercling of the flake.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Apr 7, 2017

climbed this again today after hearing about the lead fall fatality on 3/25/2017. have led this many times over the yrs. dozen times or more by now

protectability pretty much as i remember. solid placements avail within every 10-15 ft through the somewhat chossy but easy middle stretch. pretty key to opt for bomber placements and not settle for marginal ones

rack of one Blue Alien, double Green to double Red, plus single BD 0.75 Green and #1 Red, plus couple of extra finger sizes (or opt for stoppers). the bomber pro's throughout are mostly small sizes. i sometimes finish without placing the 0.75 and/or the #1. the finishing slanting crack flares at spots, but bomber placements do exist. one could even sew that up, that is if one isn't left with only one suitably sized pro by then or none

FYI, Spaghetti & Chili is a single pitch climb. there is no "first set of fixed chains" partway up on S&C. after leading to top of initial steep flake, the visible bolted anchor about 20 ft to the left is for the adjacent bolted route Gray Cell Green. if leading S&C, DO NOT traverse over to clip that anchor as pro. it would create heinous rope drag that would make the topout sequence more difficult than need be

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