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Spaceman 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jake Dayley, Kole DeCou - Nov/Dec 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, fall, winter
Page Views: 292
Submitted By: Jake Dayley on Mar 8, 2016

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Spaceman piches 1-2

Description 

Pitch 1 - 5.11, 120'. From the toe of The Lighthouse, climb up easy low angle terrain to a bolt at 40 ft. Pull around the bulge and continue up a shallow/varied dihedral. Move up and left to the the limestone band and crimp through it (crux). Belay atop the band off two bolts.

Pitch 2 - 5.9+, 50'. Continue up the left facing dihedral, varied fingers to big hands, pull onto a nice ledge atop the pilar and a two bolt belay.

Pitch 3 - 5.11+, 130'. Wild and airy!!! Jump off of the ledge and latch a hueco jug, continue up through wild holds to a short thin crack. Nest some thin but good pro and commit to the tricky bulge (5.11). Lower angle terrain continues up to the crux dihedral. Unlock the sequence, clip some bolts, and pull out of the dihedral (5.11+). Follow bolts up and left for another 30 ft to a semi-hanging two bolt bely.

Pitch 4 - 5.11, 60'. Another wild one. Clip some bolts and pull a three foot roof directly off the belay on good rock (5.11). Follow a nice crack through the lighter colored rock then traverse right around the corner of the prow to a stance. Clip an extremely reachy bolt (hollow rock below) and pull back around the corner and up to an easy OW. Up the OW to a nice stance and two bolt belay just below the tower's shoulder.

Pitch 5 - 5.4, 10'. Climb up easy rock and traverse the shoulder for 40 feet or so, through a tunnel to the base of the summit block. Belay on the shoulder off of pro in the boulders.

Pitch 6 - 5.10- 30'. Exposed! Navigate up puzzling terrain and pull around the right edge of the summit bock onto a ledge that traverses the entire North face of the block. Edge along the exposed ledge to the back corner of the summit block and follow good patina edges up to the summit and a two bolt rap anchor.

Rappel - Rap 1 : 150' down to a ledge just below the obvious notch. These are also the belay anchors for Dry Hump Chump.

Rap 2: 150' down Dry Hump Chump to the slabs on the north face of the tower.

Side note - After the first rappel you can climb off the NW side of the spire from the notch. We may add another rap station below the summit so parties can rap to the notch with one 60 and down climb from the notch.

Location 

See approach description for Lighthouse Tower. Spaceman follows the tower's obvious thin East facing prow (see photos).

Protection 

(2) 60m ropes.
All pitches except the second are mixed.
12 quickdraws plus some slings. See photo for approximate bolt placements.
One set stoppers.
Doubles of thin pro, triples of the mid sizes to hands, a couple big hands pieces and an optional fist sized piece. The cracks are all pretty varied so you can make it work.


Photos of Spaceman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Spaceman pitches 5-6 and first Rap
Spaceman pitches 5-6 and first Rap
Rock Climbing Photo: Spaceman prow from the approach.  Pitches 5 and 6 ...
Spaceman prow from the approach. Pitches 5 and 6 ...

Comments on Spaceman Add Comment
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By Zach Harrison
Mar 3, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

While it had it moments, there was also plenty of Sedona funk on this thing. We found that 2x C3's were clutch, but 1x of .3-.75 and 2X #1-#3 was plenty, lots of bolts on this route. The alternate approach up the wash is way more straightforward. Classic post-Burcham tower face climbing?!

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