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The Bastille - N Face
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Space T 
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Spice Tour, The T 
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X-M T 

Space 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Eric Johnson, Mike Schlauch, Chip Ruckgaber
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,105
Submitted By: mike schlauch on Jun 1, 2012

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The view from the belay at the base of Wide Countr...

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  • Description 

    Found and inspired by Chip Ruckgaber, Space is one of those routes that is very obvious once you look at it but it has been passed up by climbers for years. It is the obvious, right-angling strata that begins about 20' up the third pitch of Wide Country and traverses all the way across the upper North Face until you can finish up Saturnalia. Look on page 51 of the Levin guide and you'll see it.

    Location 

    Approach via Wide Country or the Bastille Crack. Set a gear belay at an old piton at the base of Wide Country's third pitch. Head up Wide Country for about 20' (10c) to the beginning of the angling strata that shoots all the way across the upper North face. Place gear high on Wide Country and head out onto the face toward a bolt on Hairstyles. Continue the pumpy, rising traverse toward Outer Space (medium nut & 1.5" cam). Cross Outer Space and continue toward Saturnalia. Place a good 3" cam then head up Saturnalia. Pumpy. The crux is probably the section that crosses Hairstyles.

    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack. Lots of long slings. Consider bringing extra 0.5-2.5" cams if you place a lot of gear on the first 20' of Wide Country's third pitch. #4 cam could be useful, but not necessary. Clip a bolt on Hairstyles as you cross that route.


    Comments on Space Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    Jun 1, 2012

    Great find, Chip! Thanks! Super fun climb, exciting and safe....
    By Chris Archer
    Jun 1, 2012

    Nice work, lads! Looks like a terrific addition.
    By Joe Huggins
    From: Grand Junction
    Jun 5, 2012

    That's fast action! Chip was pointing that route out to me, and it seemed almost like the next day you guys did it. Ya Big Studs!

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