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Space Ranger 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Roberts and Ranger, 1987
Page Views: 123
Submitted By: Paul Heyliger on Sep 8, 2003

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Space Ranger starts at a fixed pin above a tree on the far right side of the lower Southwest Buttress. The curving line of Rangers are People Too is just to the left.

The first section of Space Ranger is uncharacteristic of the main line, and climbs average quality rock (with average protection) to an obvious flake stance at the base of a soaring dihedral. The remainder of the route takes the brilliant thin crack up this stemming corner, with several footholds providing rests. Numerous thin sections are made easier using face holds around the arete on the right. Protection is excellent provided you brought enough RP's, and like many Tower lines, double nines provide a bit more confidence in pulling up a big loop for the next clip. Near the top of the corner, good TCU's protect a traverse left to a hanging flake crack (small Camalots) that leads to the anchors.

Although marred by the first section of average rock, the bulk of this route is outstanding climbing. There is no distinct crux move, but a long series of superb moves with sinker gear that goes in quickly.


Small wired stoppers, TCU's, small cams, and as many brass nuts as you can borrow. Horning's indispensable guide calls for 5 sets of RP's, and he is not kidding. There are one or two fixed pins on the route, but they appear to come and go.

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