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Space Monkey 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chad Watkins (2002)
Season: Morning Shade
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jun 2, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Climb a moderate, shallow left facing dihedral to obtain a high first bolt. Decipher a mostly moderate sequence through the lower two thirds, taking advantage of ample rests. Near the top pull a couple of hard, thin moves to reach a nice in-cut. Shake out and then climb a sequence of edges and slopers to reach the chains.

I personally found this route to be soft and unsustained for the grade. The fixed draw also struck me as unnecessary due to the solid clipping stance. Perhaps it is useful for shorter climbers? I prefer Elephant Ear which is the same style and grade.

Location 

The middle of three routes around the corner from Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. This route starts by climbing a shallow left facing dihedral and is opposite a tree.

Protection 

7 bolts, the last of which is fixed; anchor.


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