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Focus T,S 
Gimme three steps... T,S 
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Space Monkey T,S 
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Z Crack T 

Space Monkey 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Caldwell, Bruce Burgess
Page Views: 1,166
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Finishing up the sustained crux on this wonderful ...


Steep face climbing thats somewhat spicey.


Starts 10 ft right of Test Pilots at a crack. Crank the 20 ft 5.10 crack. Step right at the bush and head up the face on bolts and gear. After the last bolt, do the run out and then step right to a Tim Fisher and Nathan Brown stainless hex natural anchor.


tcu's up to green camalots

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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 24, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Love the garden hose on the anchor cables.
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Great pitch, and much steeper than it looks. Quite a mixed bag with 5.10 finger crack (with Z Crack start) to a bush climb, to steep 5.11 face, to 5.10+ (?) bulge pull to a 5.9R heady slab finish. Should be in the rotation for local 5.11 gear climbers. The bad bolts that were likely the reason for this route's obscurity for so many years have been replace.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013

If it weren't for the funky bush action, and the easy but runout finish, this thing would get 4 stars. The face climbing in the middle is excellent!

Edit: Just beefed up the nut anchor today with an additional hex (stainless cable) and better equalization of the anchor.
By Billy Danger
From: Asheville, NC
Dec 17, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I love this pitch. The upper face contains three fantastic back to back sequences that involve using unique holds on perfect rock. I consider this a "local classic". Sure, there's a bush which detracts from the aesthetics of the line, but the climbing that surrounds it is burly and requires a diverse set of skills. Highly recommended!

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