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Space Miser 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: J. Finkelstein, B. Collett
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 178
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Jun 4, 2012

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Josh on the crux pitch. Photo: Rob Kepley.


This is another fun, exposed route on the Tan Buttresses. The crux pitch has some wild climbing in airy positions.

1) After starting in a funky chimney feature, follow the corner system for 180 feet or so to a nice ledge. Generally stay on the right side of the depression with a number of pleasant handcrack sections, 5.10.

2) Follow the dihedral system above the belay for 30 feet or so until you can step right to climb a fun little series of flakes. Step right again and follow an inset to a ledge. Move 25 feet left on the ledge and follow a corner to a nice ledge at 110 feet and belay there, 5.9.

3) Continue up the corner system/left leaning ramp for 30 feet or so until you reach the right side of a large ledge. At this point, head straight up some thought provoking climbing towards an obtuse dihedral feature. Climb the airy crack on the left side of this feature onto the headwall and follow the features out left towards the top of the Goat Food dihedral. There is an exposed, punchy little face traverse to get into the Goat Food crack. Follow the crack to a decent ledge and belay below a steep hand and OW crack. 5.11, 190 feet.

4) Follow the steep crack to the top, per Astro Goat. 5.10-, 50 feet.

5) Scramble to the top.


Start in the deep dihedral/chimney system between Astro Goat and Hard to Say.


Standard rack.

Photos of Space Miser Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Astro Goat is in blue. Space Miser is in red.
BETA PHOTO: Astro Goat is in blue. Space Miser is in red.

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By superjosh
Jun 4, 2012

I had a great time on this route and would recommend it to others. The first pitch is excellent, with clean cracks and ample protection. Several options exist on the second pitch. Follow your nose up and slightly left. The crux third pitch is steep and engaging, with a crack switch at 150 feet when a short hand crack abruptly ends. Fortunately, gold knobs grant access to another crack system out left. A really nice pitch. All belays have good gear and comfortable ledges.

Small cams, including grey and purple Metolius-sized pieces, are nice to have. Hope you enjoy it as much as I did!

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