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Space Jam 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A1 PG13 [details]
FA: JT Croston and Shawn Tasker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: JT Croston on Aug 18, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Space Jam 5.11d A1 photo credit: altusmountainguid...

Description 

Space Jam: Jt Croston and Shawn Tasker July 2014
5.11d/5.12a A1 or 5.12? This is a sustained, slightly overhanging climb and you will need a wide variety of climbing styles along with a healthy dose of stamina. Look forward to open hand layaways and some jamming that would make Mr. Hatfield proud. We bailed on the seventh pitch from too much aiding and a band of shitty rock.
Pitch 1: 5.6, 25 m Climb the ramp trending right to a Belay Station.
Pitch 2: 5.11, 30 m Climb a face past three bolts to a crack that leads to a chimney with a belay ledge on top.
Pitch 3: 5.11+ sustained, (crux) 30 m Traverse left for 12m from the belay past a bolt to gain a finger to hand crack. Climb the crack using jams and layaways to a belay station.
Pitch 4: 5.11+ 20 m, continue up the crack and over a small lip to some ledges and a belay station above.
Pitch 5: 5.11 30 m, Step right off the belay and climb discontinuous cracks to small roof and step left to a pin. From there continue up and left left to a bolt gaining a prominent crack system just below a belay ledge.
Pitch 6: 5.11+ A1(5.12?) From the belay ledge continue up the crack system to a series of minor roofs. As gear becomes less desirable, a pin will get you through a crux to a belay station above (Note: Three bolts are above the station for any one trying to finish the line).
Be mindful to back clip while repelling to ensure stations are reachable. Rapping on double 60 m ropes from the third rap station will get you to a small ledge - lower off slung rock. Rap stations are bolts, hangers, tat, and biners (bring tat for rap)

Location 

left of Space Buttress...look for obvious vertical crack on overhanging wall near the col into Mulvey Basin

Protection 

Double BD's from #0.2 to #3 and one #4. One set of nuts


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