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Space Jam T 

Space Jam 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Besnia, Hayden Price, Greg Gavin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Donovan Allen on May 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Fun jams, but the approach 'talus' was pretty bad-...

Description 

Look for the obvious gorgeous thin hands to finger crack, send it. FUN!

Location 

located on Space Station

Protection 

small rack, metolius 0 was useful for the crux. Bolted anchors up top.


Photos of Space Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's your chance, do your dance, at the Space Ja...
BETA PHOTO: Here's your chance, do your dance, at the Space Ja...
Rock Climbing Photo: Space Jam and its belay bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Space Jam and its belay bolts.

Comments on Space Jam Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 15, 2012

Nice Work on this one guys. Can't wait to get on it
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
May 22, 2012

Mr. Bez scored on this one! Splitter!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I remember hiking up there three or so years ago to check out the gorgeous looking 60' splitter... which turned out to be 15' long at best. Those 15' are fun and atypical for Ferguson, the crack being laser-cut as opposed to flaring and wavy. Regardless, 3 stars for 2 body lengths guarded by the worse section of talus in the Wasatch followed by the thickest brush? I'd say it's a bit generous. Maybe if it were right by Unction?

Bring a whippet for the talus and a can of gasoline + lighter for the bushwack. Also, limit the gear to BD .3 to #1 and no nuts in the name of saving weight (you'll understand on the approach).

The anchor placement makes absolutely no sense. Why you would bother putting bolts 4' back and 6' left from the top of the crack when you have perfectly good rock 6" to the side of said crack puzzles me. The dirt mantel was a treat, the bolts are now buried in gravel and the chains don't make it past the lip, making your rope run over fergy cheese grader rock and your last piece walk like a bitch.

Anyway, go up there if you've done everything else in Fergy. The view is cool and there's tons of disappointing choss to gape at. The route is fun too.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Jul 29, 2012

Boissal, you've truly captured the essence of the space station experience! I haven't been up there since Chris installed the anchors perhaps some quicklinks would remedy the rope drag?

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