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Space Invaders 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Richie Hum, Nathan Brown
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: nbrown on Nov 1, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 climbs up and right ending at right side o...

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Description 

This is a fun new hard route that has excellent rock but quite a bit of traversing. Make sure the second is up to the climbing. It was originally started in the early 2000's with another friend but abandoned after running into a blank section. The route was recently revisited, rerouted via traverse, and finished.

P-1
It's best to stick clip the first bolt due to a boulder problem start and a rocky landing. Bouldery climbing gets you to bolt 2 under the roof (technical crux). Step down and left to handrail and traverse left, then back up to a blue TCU placement under roof. Continue along the pumpy traverse (redpoint crux) past a bolt and small cams to a semi-rest (small ledge) at the base of a right-facing corner. Small/med cam protects the corner up to a bolt. From the bolt move up and onto the right end of the Solace ledge and belay at bolts.

P-2
Step back right and follow the seam past gear to a ledge below the bulge. Climb left through the roof/bulge and up to the top (immediate right side of large rock ledge that juts out). Rap from Solace to the left.

Location 

Just downhill from Solace of Open Spaces.

Protection 

light rack to thin hand size cams & 4 bolts for pitch one. Standard rack for pitch 2. We used a # 4 to protect the last section, but other gear would likely do.


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