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Space Invaders 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gene Drake, Rocko Rampino
Season: Spring, Summer, and Fall
Page Views: 1,492
Submitted By: urs on Jul 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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  • Description 

    Space Invaders is the beautiful slabby arete on the very left side of Black Wall. A very balancy begining leads to beautiful arete climbing with crimps, jugs, and flakes. The crux is half way up where you make a comiting move from crimps to this minature roof. Spectacular.

    Location 

    This route is located on the very far left of black wall. From the base of rats tooth you can see a beautiful dihedral to the left. just to the right of the dihedral is a small gully. Space Invaders starts right above the gully.

    Protection 

    This route is very well protected and is perfect for a beginer who is up for the grade. You need 12 draws and a sling. There are rapel chains and the top.


    Comments on Space Invaders Add Comment
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    By BruceB
    From: Reno, NV
    Sep 4, 2016

    Did we do the right route? I think so, but just 8 bolts. What's with the 12 draws?
    Bit of an odd start. Either run out 10b to the first bolt or a contrived reach in from the left side of the slab to make the clip. Big traverse from the 2nd to 3rd bolt could be trouble for the follower if you slip just after the 2nd bolt.
    Arete is good with a few hidden holds around the right side. Mostly crimps, small knobs and friction. The arete is well bolted.
    Not really a beautiful route!
    By Niko Nakamura
    From: Reno
    May 22, 2017

    I only found 8 bolts as well by the time I arrived at a chain anchor. Was curious if it keeps going up the slab to the left? Start was pretty funky with high bolts but the upper half was stellar! Must do. Seemed much softer than Donner Summit 10.b, especially when compared to climbs on peanut gallery or Firecracker. Don't let the grade scare you off.

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