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Space Cowboy 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Kerry and Charlie Rollins 1989
Page Views: 3,298
Submitted By: David C. Burke on Mar 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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BM on Space Cowboy

Description 

This route starts at a low angle ramp just left of the middle of Wind Wall. Face climb past three bolts to a crack in a groove. The crux is a tricky sequence right around the third bolt.

Protection 

There are 5 bolts on this route and a light rack will suffice to protect the rest. I bring a #3 camalot for a spot just above the third bolt a few small cams and a set of nuts. Chain anchors at the top.


Photos of Space Cowboy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Montgomery leading Space Cowboy
Brad Montgomery leading Space Cowboy

Comments on Space Cowboy Add Comment
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By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 25, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route. I only found 4 bolts and didn't place anything larger than a .75 however.
By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 24, 2009

Absolutely outstanding for the grade - very sustained, varied movies, nice exposure! Favorite climb at the Lemmon!
By Dan Carter
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 16, 2010

Fun climb. First trad/mix lead of this grade for me. I only used nuts and even slung a chickenhead. I agree that the crux is around the third bolt but the rest is keeps one attentive.
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route is abysmally bad, and I found virtually nothing redeeming about it. The rock is solid, so I guess that's good.

The movement is terrible, the bolt placements are bad, the protection isn't great, and it's just not fun. I'd avoid it if at all possible.
By jefe
Sep 10, 2012

Awwww, Peter. Too bad you had a bad time on this route. Most people like it and it's an acknowledged three star classic.
Sounds like you need a hug, brother.

There's one in every crowd.
By Brandon Baldwin
From: Sahuarita, AZ
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We weren't planning on climbing in this area, but rain in our planned area forced us to Windy Point. I had only brought agressive down turned climbing shoes and my toes were killing me especially at the stance to clip the third bolt. I would recommend some climbing shoes that smear well for the early slabby moves. The crux is just above the third bolt (glad that bolt was there!) and I felt the best climbing was from the crux to the top, but I am not a fan slab work. Trying to place gear above the fourth bolt kept this climb exciting. I only brought nuts with me this time and I liked the placements, so I wouldn't carry anything different next time.
By Nick Henscheid
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 5, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think this climb is quite good as a pure lead onsight, but probably not as good otherwise. Some of the movement is inobvious and technical, some of the gear is pretty small and fiddly, and if you're not careful you can miss a good placement and find yourself 15 feet above the last bolt wondering what you missed. Gear beta: tiny to medium nuts and cams 00-0.5. I placed 2 blue (#1) Metolius.
By Tatiana C
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 30, 2016

No. Just say no.
This route is sketchy af.
By CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Mar 5, 2017

The fixed anchors (bolts and/or top-anchors) on Space Cowboy have been replaced. For more information on CASA's anchor replacement efforts and for a complete list of updated climbs: theclimbershome.org/anchor-tea...

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