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Wealth of Nations T 

Space Cadet 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kent Wheeler, JS, Sept. 2013
Page Views: 618
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Scoping the second bolt, Space Cadet FA.

Description 

Space Cadet sneaks up the left end of the huge roof band on Strone’'s main face by starting up the right variation of Wealth of Nations for five or so feet until possible to move right at an obvious deep jug. Stretch to clip the first bolt, then commit to airy climbing right and up to the lip of the roof band to another bolt, which protects moves to get established on the face above. The face is protected by two more bolts leading to Metolius rap hangers. The real climbing is short, but it'’s on excellent rock with great exposure, justifying IMO three stars. Named in part for losing car keys during a dawn patrol recon, necessitating a day'’s worth of combing the base, hitchhiking, and other shenanigans.

Location 

Starts on Wealth of Nations. See the photodiagram on the main Strone Crag page. Lower or rap from Metolius rap hangers.

Protection 

A hand-size cam or two (up to a yellow Camalot) and long slings for the initial moves up the right variation of Wealth of Nations, then draws.


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By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 10, 2014

Worth doing. Sling your initial gear long to prevent the rope from crossing that razor arete at the start (before the first bolt). Nice climbing to and above the roof, with a tricky finish.

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