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Space Boyz 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 11 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Curtis Mai & Todd McCray - 1994
Page Views: 19,551
Submitted By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (172)
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P1: 5.8
P2: 5.9
P3: 5.9
P4: 5.9
P5: 5.10
P6: 5.10d
P7: 5.10
P8: 5.9
P9: 5.10
P10: 5.9
P11: 5.9

This classic route was bolted entirely on weekends (52 of them!) by a pair of South-Texan climbers. Watchout for the loose rock on pitches 9-11, especially when descending. I have witnessed huge rocks dislodged from there by climbers yarding on their stuck ropes. For that same reason I wouldn't recommend climbing below another party. A 60 meter rope to rap works fine. You may wish to consider using a rope-bag or flaking your rope over your shoulders when descending in windy conditions. The sixth pitch is awesome!


Starts behind and right of the pavillion and finishes atop a spire/gendarme.


Bolts with anchors.

Photos of Space Boyz Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erick on the classic at the start of the crux pitc...
Erick on the classic at the start of the crux pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the end of pitch No. 6
At the end of pitch No. 6
Rock Climbing Photo: on the summit belaying derek
on the summit belaying derek
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek leading pitch 10 photot by Cathy Wong
Derek leading pitch 10 photot by Cathy Wong
Rock Climbing Photo: starting pitch 6 photo by Cathy Wong
starting pitch 6 photo by Cathy Wong
Rock Climbing Photo: Kati Simmons climbs the crux pitch as Nathan Scher...
Kati Simmons climbs the crux pitch as Nathan Scher...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy in the crux changing corners pitch. This is w...
Andy in the crux changing corners pitch. This is w...
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic of the route.
Panoramic of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Base of Space Boyz
The Base of Space Boyz
Rock Climbing Photo: Space Boyz
Space Boyz
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pitch (10d) of Space Boyz
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch (10d) of Space Boyz

Comments on Space Boyz Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 23, 2017
By MikeZ
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 8, 2011

I'm planning on climbing this route in the next few months. Is there a certain day of the week or month that this climb will be more likely to be free of people? I've just heard stories of how this climb is always packed. Also, how is the climb lately, any recent reports? I plan on linking a few pitches as the lamountainers beta page suggests, should I be taking 24 quickdraws with me?
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 12, 2011

This route has a party on it basically every day during the season. In the 18 days or whatever I was at the potrero there was always at least one party on it. Best bet, is to get there early in the morning. If there's someone ahead of you, you can do another long multi like yankee clipper, black cat bone, or head over to mota and do snott girlz or Pancho Villa rides again. Alternatively, if you are fast, you could be the late shift, and head up early afternoon, after whoever got up first starts rapping. I don't think climbing under another party in the potrero is a good idea genarlly because there is so much loose choss, but there is a traverse up high, so you've got some protection.

I didn't do this particular route because there was a party on it every day, but I would recommend 25 quicks, a helmet and a 70m for anyone climbing in the potrero.
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Mar 25, 2011

We did this route a year ago over a N. American spring break, and we were the only one on it.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Nov 20, 2011

Fun climb. Crux pitch is thoughtful.
By Mark Grundon
Oct 28, 2014

For a free online topo visit:
Free Space Boyz Topo
By Lotte
From: Amsterdam
Feb 24, 2015

20 quick draws and a 60m were enough to link 1&2, and 4&5 and 8&9.
The sun hit the rock (in Feb) around 11/12, and some parts of it were in the shade from 3PM.
Plan your climb accordingly.
By Lance Ranzer
Dec 3, 2015

Awesome route!! Bring a 70 meter rope and 26 draws if you wanna link and swing leads.
Rapping was easy with a 70mm as well. Pitch 6 & 7 are the 10c/d parts of the climb
By Pink Thunder
From: Lakewood
Jan 27, 2016

Climbed Space Boyz on Jan. 9. No more crap all over the route. And I hope the idiot that was responsible for that got his ass kicked. Had a great time.

Also, I thought the two pitches after the supposed crux were actually harder than the 10d traverse moves.

And it's really easy to link pitches and make the whole thing just six pitches. Just take about 25 draws and a 70 meter rope and you'll be fine.
By moby
Feb 3, 2016

When you are rappelling from the ledge on top of pitch 4 do not skip the anchors 15ft below the ledge. If you do you will not make it to the next set of anchors even with a 70m!!!
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Mar 1, 2016

On pitch 7, clip 4 bolts or so and then head right towards a brushy corner. Going straight up here would be difficult with a bad fall potential. The free online topo (link posted by Mark in comment section) does a good job of showing this.
By Mark Lutterman
Jun 12, 2016

Loved this. We started at dawn and simul-climbed till we almost ran out of draws for first four pitches. swapped and finished the easy pitches. Then single pitched the rest. Brought two rope buckets and simul-rapped from the buckets. This greatly reduced time spent retrieving snagged ropes vs sequential raps. It gets very windy with lots of flakes to snag thrown ropes.
By Fritz N.
From: Durango, CO
Jan 23, 2017

Several rap anchors are less than desirable, oftentimes rusty, spinning cold shuts. However, many stations also have a newer set of anchors alongside them, just without chain or rings. Wère I lucky enough to repeat the route, I'd bring a handful of quicklinks to enable rapping on the newer bolts.

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