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Space Babble 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Ron Kauk and Kevin Worrall
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: tarallo on Nov 8, 2016

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The business are the first two pitches.The pro is good and a little bit difficult the first mantel to reach the roof where there is a fern. ,good pro red x4 Yellow totem and a green alien,.As I turned the roof I used a blue totem in a pin hole, super bomber, and reached the pin.At this point I was able two get over the roof and with a difficult move reach the first bolt(no way for me 5.11a)from the first bolt I kept the right and reached the second bolt then I lowered a little bit and got the anchor.The second pitch has a difficult mantel(10.c) with the bolt many meters below you.
The other pitches you have only to keep calm and follow the right path ... with no mistakes.The fifth pitch is protected with a #4 camalot in a hole.
The Sixth pitch has a spicy end with the bolt 8-9 meters below you...
The last pitch is now well protected by a new bolt with a very hard friction move.
At the end a fantastic route for me with the first pitch much more 11d than 11a.
Thanks again to Clint Cummins and Kev for the replacing all the belay and climbing bolts and having keept the route as it was, a true master piece for me.

Location 

middle cathedral rock close to bircheff-williams

Protection 

2-3 sets of small cams to Yellow/red alien (x4- c3 -alien)one red ,one Yellow and one four camalot.
I used a set of totem cam and found them the best cam to protect the first pitch . I used also a 000c3
Five quick draws and long slings


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