Pitch one: Starts with a somewhat chossy 10a "approach pitch" that ascends a slaby groove to a steeper section with a small roof at the finish. Above this is a small alcove and the anchors. From here you can climb up to the right onto "More Funky Than Monkey" or out left to the second pitch of Chango.
Pitch two: 11b/c, The second and crux pitch steps left from the belay for a few moves to get established below the headwall. Clip one bolt and ascend the beautiful, steep, pink face for 4 bolts on some of the best jugs at the crag. You are then deposited at the base of a corner. Cop a rest here and stem your way up to the top of the corner and anchors on a slopey ledge. Super fun.
- *Do the first 2 pitches as one with a 70 meter rope and 15 draws for a stellar way to start this climb. At the end of the second pitch you also have the option to traverse right for about 40 feet (passing the optional belay for the last pitch) to the rappel anchor at the top of "Up Stream". From here with a 60 meter rope you can rappel twice and reach the ground.
Pitch three: 11a, For the final pitch move the belay right along the ledge system about 25 feet, clip one bolt of an optional anchor along the way (belay for "More Funky Than Monkey"). Once established at the furthest right set of anchors on the ledge (these are the anchors of "Up Stream") Climb right from the belay, to the top of a large separated block, make a few easy moves back left and clip the first bolt. Continue to traverse the orange rock to the left following a horizontal feature with your hands to the base of a right facing corner with a thin crack feature (use long slings on the traverse). Once established at the base of the corner, cop a rest, then solve the crux moving into the corner feature on steeper rock. Continue up on easier ground with a small run-out, clipping 3 more bolts en-route to the anchors at the top of the wall.
In the center of the right wall, ascend the grassy ledges to the second of 4 belay stations from the left that mark the start for all the routes on the wall.
Sharma on the crux second pitch, about to enter th...
By Nick Jens
Apr 15, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
There's a peregrine falcon nest on top of the 11c. don't climb it for now.