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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lawyer, Williams, Dahn 1989
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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5.8 G - Follow hand crack up and left into a book (crux), then follow this up to a rest near the raven's nest below the large roof. Head right following the arete to a series of flakes that go straight up, trending slightly left. At the top head right to a single bolt.


On the left wall, at an arete with a book 40 feet up, 20 feet up from the end of the arete in a corner with a birch tree growing at the top of it (can sling for first piece).

Walkoff is back into the woods 50 feet, then option 1) over the slabby rock to the other side for the rappel on the right wall (Little Gem Diner rappel), or option 2) wander left for the walkoff which will take you a while but no rappelling required.


Gear and single bolt act as belay.

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By Johan
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 6, 2012

Top-roping non-beta: the Rocinha anchor can not be used to TR Soweto, this would invite huge dangerous pendulums.
By Gunkiemike
Jun 30, 2016

This is probably my favorite route at Shanty. Continuous challenge, outrageous holds, solid gear of all types, great view from the top.

Descent - I don't know if it's feasible to reach down to any of the anchors on the Rocina wall (never tried it). I've walked off the left end of the cliff (bring your approach shoes up with you) as well as walking around climbers' right to get to the Vernal Imperative anchor.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 1, 2016

Climber's right walkoff/rappel from the top of Little Gem Diner is the slightly faster descent option.

Any wasp/hornet nests on the climb?

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