REI Community
Vallunaraju
Select Route:
Southwestern Route 

Southwestern Route 

   
Type:  Alpine
Original: Mod. Snow [details]
FA: A. Szepessy and M. Szepessy (ski ascent) 1949
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: Matt Pennock on Jun 15, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Getting close to the summit

Description 

The normal route, or, most popular. If it hasn't recently snowed, the trail up is more than well beaten and obvious. There are crevasses so roping up is a good idea. Towards the top there is a large crevasse which is easy to hop over. They are obvious and not very wide. After fresh snow, if you are the first, you'll have to do some route finding otherwise just follow the trail.

From the moraine camp it's a little tricky figuring out which way to go to gain access to the glacier. There are little rock markers stacked all over the place which seem to confuse more than aid. Head leftward from the moraine camp, not straight up, until you reach low angle slabs. Scramble up the slabs, passing a little pool of water, until you reach the glacier.

There are two summits. The main summit, as of 2016 is broken up and requires some protection to ascend. The lower summit (about 18,300 feet) is a short climb up a ~55 degree slope.

Protection 

A rope, ice axe, crampons. Screw/pickets if doing the main summit.


Photos of Southwestern Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower Vallunaraju summit as seen from partway up t...
Lower Vallunaraju summit as seen from partway up t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending the beautiful slabs below the glacier.
Descending the beautiful slabs below the glacier.
Rock Climbing Photo: Vallunaraju summit ridge.
Vallunaraju summit ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dawn near the summit of Vallunaraju.
Dawn near the summit of Vallunaraju.
Rock Climbing Photo: Returning to the col from the main summit.
Returning to the col from the main summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the main peak from the col of Vallunaraju
View of the main peak from the col of Vallunaraju
Rock Climbing Photo: Traveling up the southwest slopes with the double ...
Traveling up the southwest slopes with the double ...

Comments on Southwestern Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By max huecksteadt
From: Boise ID
Mar 21, 2017

This is mostly a very easy glacier slog, but aesthetic and with incredible views (standard per the Blanca).

If you want to see what the fuss is about but don't want a hassle, do it from Huaraz in a half day, leaving town around midnight and getting back in time for lunch and a nap!

Skis would be a good idea if you're up to it.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About