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Western Coastal Slope

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Bald Rock Basin 
Devil's Glen 
Great Ledge 
Huntington State Park 
Laddin's Rock 
Naugatuck State Forest  
Old Mine Park 
Pequonnock River Valley State Park 
Roadside Crag 
Sleeping Giant State Park 
Twin Brooks Park 
Ward St. "Gritstone" Crag, Norwalk 
Webb Mountain Park 
West Rock State Park 
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Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

MYX Monster
Technical & rocky singletrack with boulders to session - best in the direction shown here. Near Buchanan, New York
Cunningham Park
Fast singletrack and dirt jumping awesomeness, ranging from absolute beginners to skilled XC/FR. Near Bellerose Terrace, New York
Yellow Trail - Pine Mountain
Beautiful trail gaining the highest point in Bennett's Pond State Park - Pine Mountain. Near Ridgefield, Connecticut
Tarrywile Figure 8
A rocky and technical singeltrack challenge. Near Danbury, Connecticut
Blue Loop
Rocky, Technical Singeltrack with some steeps Near Danbury, Connecticut
Blue Trail
Blue trail has it all, and is subsequently one of the most well-ridden trails. Near Easton, Connecticut
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Western Coastal Slope Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.2696, -73.3826 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,699
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Dec 10, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

21°
Saturday

33° | 21°
Sunday

33° | 31°
Monday

43° | 30°
Tuesday

39° | 27°
Wednesday

39° | 20°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

Climbing in this part of the state is difficult was find until sites like mountainproject.com came around. Now it's a little less difficult but there are many issues and few good crags. Given the long history of climbing in CT and the dense population, this area of CT has many little areas spread around which have been explored and climbed by many of the best climbers of their time. As such, there is very little which has not already been climbed at one point or another in established areas unless you are climbing at the highest levels of the sport. Get out have some fun and remember... be discrete!

Getting There 

I-95 and I-695 provide access with many other roads all heading towards "The City" (Read: New York City)

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

108 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',9],['5.8',14],['5.9',21],['5.10',18],['5.11',12],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Western Coastal Slope

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Western Coastal Slope:
Wiessner's Rib   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     , 2 pitches, 120'   Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin
5.6 (2)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Great Ledge : Main Face
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Nickel And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Happiness Is a Warm Drill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 100'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Frenchman's Cap   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     , 70'   Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin
Psychonautics   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
That 70 Show   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Yvette   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin
Z Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Laddin's Rock
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Cloud Surfing   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 55'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
The People's Rock   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Ground Effect   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Great Ledge : Main Face
Slightly Removed   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 100'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
The Tree of Life   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Winning and Losing   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Late For Supper   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Great Ledge : Main Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Western Coastal Slope

Featured Route For Western Coastal Slope
Rock Climbing Photo: The obvious crack.

West Rock Crack 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  CT : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Ball Field Slabs
The FINEST legal CRACK in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack. Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Comments on Western Coastal Slope Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Schneider
Sep 3, 2016
Morgan cautions climbers to be discreet. An excellent word!
I've had some success by asking for permission to cross private property.
Parking can be the biggest hassle.
Your milage may vary.


If you are trying to find the best rock do your ground work.
Meet the locals, be polite.

Stay in small groups of two.
Explain before you climb that you will want to come back.
If there is any resistance drop the idea of climbing.


In this State you have to ask for permission,
if you can take a walk, don't blow it by climbing.
Include the locals in the process by showing them pictures
of what you want to come back to try and climb.
If you have spectators, top rope.
(TR just looks like it is safer, to the general public.)


There is lots of rock that Morgan must be keeping track of.
I'm not keeping a book, or adding areas to this data base.
One could but the result would be the closing of many great areas.
If you are interested in seeing some of the rock in south western CT,
get in touch with me.