Western Coastal Slope Rock Climbing
WarZone Crag, SW CT, Undeveloped.
Climbing in this part of the state is difficult was find until sites like mountainproject.com
came around. Now it's a little less difficult but there are many issues and few good crags. Given the long history of climbing in CT and the dense population, this area of CT has many little areas spread around which have been explored and climbed by many of the best climbers of their time. As such, there is very little which has not already been climbed at one point or another in established areas unless you are climbing at the highest levels of the sport. Get out have some fun and remember... be discrete!
I-95 and I-695 provide access with many other roads all heading towards "The City" (Read: New York City)
Weather station 2.2 miles from here
108 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Western Coastal Slope
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Western Coastal Slope
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Western Coastal Slope:
Featured Route For Western Coastal Slope
West Rock Crack 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a CT
: Western Coastal Slope
: ... : Ball Field Slabs
The FINEST legal CRACK in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack. Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck....[more] Browse More Classics in CT
By Michael Schneider
Sep 3, 2016
Morgan cautions climbers to be discreet. An excellent word!
I've had some success by asking for permission to cross private property.
Parking can be the biggest hassle.
Your milage may vary.
If you are trying to find the best rock do your ground work.
Meet the locals, be polite.
Stay in small groups of two.
Explain before you climb that you will want to come back.
If there is any resistance drop the idea of climbing.
In this State you have to ask for permission,
if you can take a walk, don't blow it by climbing.
Include the locals in the process by showing them pictures
of what you want to come back to try and climb.
If you have spectators, top rope.
(TR just looks like it is safer, to the general public.)
There is lots of rock that Morgan must be keeping track of.
I'm not keeping a book, or adding areas to this data base.
One could but the result would be the closing of many great areas.
If you are interested in seeing some of the rock in south western CT,
get in touch with me.