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Western Coastal Slope

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From MP's sister site:

Western Coastal Slope Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.348, -73.25626 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 58,251
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Dec 10, 2007
Forecast:
This Afternoon

64° | 56°
Wednesday

76° | 62°
Thursday

78° | 67°
Friday

78° | 63°
Saturday

78° | 63°
Sunday

80° | 65°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

Climbing in this part of the state is difficult was find until sites like mountainproject.com came around. Now it's a little less difficult but there are many issues and few good crags. Given the long history of climbing in CT and the dense population, this area of CT has many little areas spread around which have been explored and climbed by many of the best climbers of their time. As such, there is very little which has not already been climbed at one point or another in established areas unless you are climbing at the highest levels of the sport. Get out have some fun and remember... be discrete!

Getting There 

I-95 and I-695 provide access with many other roads all heading towards "The City" (Read: New York City)

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.9 miles from here

109 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',30],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',9],['5.8',14],['5.9',21],['5.10',18],['5.11',13],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Western Coastal Slope

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Western Coastal Slope:
Wiessner's Rib   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     , 2 pitches, 120'   Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin
5.6 (2)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Great Ledge : Main Face
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Nickel And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
That 70 Show   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Psychonautics   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Frenchman's Cap   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     , 70'   Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin
Happiness Is a Warm Drill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 100'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Yvette   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin
Gorilla Traverse   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Laddin's Rock
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Cloud Surfing   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 55'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
The People's Rock   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Ground Effect   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Great Ledge : Main Face
Slightly Removed   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 100'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
The Tree of Life   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Late For Supper   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Great Ledge : Main Face
Winning and Losing   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Western Coastal Slope

Featured Route For Western Coastal Slope
Rock Climbing Photo: Ground Effect 5.10d

Ground Effect 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13  Connecticut : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Main Face
Start on the right side under the belly of the overhang on obvious jugs and climb up and right on obvious seam. Route move straight up through some cracks fin-like holds to just below small roof with horizontal. Some holds are loose so be careful. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Connecticut

Comments on Western Coastal Slope Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Schneider
Sep 3, 2016
Morgan or Ladd(?)cautions climbers to be discreet. An excellent word!
I've had some success by asking for permission to cross private property.
Parking can be the biggest hassle.
Your milage may vary.

As to finding un-climbed stone? Of course there is lots.
The old school climbers from the 1940s on where routine climbers
That is they returned to the same location, over and over again.
as opposed to looking for new rock. If you find fresh stone it is obvious.

If you are trying to find the best rock do your ground work.
Meet the locals, be polite.

Stay in small groups of two.
Explain before you climb that you will want to come back.
If there is any resistance drop the idea of climbing.

Rock Climbing Photo: Raw,  Hard off the pads
Raw,
Hard off the pads

In this State you have to ask for permission,
if you can take a walk, don't blow it by climbing.
Include the locals in the process by showing them pictures
of what you want to come back to try and climb.
If you have spectators, top rope.
(TR just looks like it is safer, to the general public.)


There is lots of rock that Morgan must be keeping track of.
I'm not keeping a book, or adding areas to this data base.
One could but the result would be the closing of many great areas.
If you are interested in seeing some of the rock in south western CT,
get in touch with me.

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