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Marmot's Tooth - Beginner's Mind T 
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Southwest Slope 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

Type:  Trad, Alpine
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: John C. Fremont
Page Views: 2,303
Submitted By: John Simpson on Nov 28, 2006

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Baby marmot tempted by a bite of Cliff Bar at the ...


I started this route from base camp near the junction of the Indian Pass Trail and Titcomb Lakes Trail. Begin by hiking up the Indian Pass Trail approximately 2 miles. Once you have gone about 2 miles you will see a gentle slope that leads up to a saddle on the northwest side of the trail. Hike up the slope to the saddle. Once on the saddle, be sure to take pictures becacuse it has great views of the Titcomb Basin.
From the saddle begin hiking up the peak which will at this time be to the northeast. The hike from the saddle to the top of the peak requires some 3rd class scrambling. I climbed this route in late July so there was no snow, but if there is snow or ice on the rock you may want a rope. You will hike up the slope, which is mostly short slabs with some loose rock for about 2000 feet. The route can be semi-difficult to follow but just try to keep wandering across the slope to a minimum. Once you feel like you are nearly at the top I found that it is easier to cut across towards the northwest to get to a good ledge at the top. The top of the peak gives great views of Gannett Peak, the Titcomb Basin, Island lake, and the Bull Lake Glaciers.
Once on top descend the same route down and back to camp. Overall it is a good easy route to get on top of a very beautiful peak.


I wore a helmet to protect against small rockfall but other than that in the summer all you really need is yourself.
In the winter this could become a pretty tricky climb. Snow and ice on the rock could be a problem that requires snow pickets, ice screws, etc. Also depending on how the snow builds up on the route, it could become avalanche prone.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Fremont Peak, summit
Fremont Peak, summit

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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2006

You can also climb this route from Titcomb Basin. Head up the west face of Fremont Peak from Mistake Lake (which is between the Titcomb Lakes but east of them). A bit steeper start than from Indian Basin, but still 3rd class.

When Fremont climbed this peak in 1842, he thought it was the highest peak in the Rocky Mountains.

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