|Type:||Aid, 11 pitches, 1200', Grade V|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3- [details]|
|FA:||Warren Harding, Galen Rowell, and Joe Faint|
|Submitted By:||Nate Furman on Dec 12, 2007|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Southwest Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Travis Hibbard
Dec 19, 2007
|Great Description. I did this route summer 07 as a party of 3. Definitely an adventure|
By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Feb 28, 2008
Doing this route with Travis & Ryan was one of the high points of 2007 for me.
The initial moves on P1 protect well with #2 & #3 Ball-nutz, making that pitch more like C1+ 5.9.
The hook move in the middle of P5 looks to me like it is deteriorating. Be gentle. The headwall is a mix of rivets and bolts, updated in the last couple of years.
P7 we used a tension traverse. Splitting p7 into two short pitches would be a good idea. I found some of the gear on the upper part of p8 to be insecure, but I was getting tired at that point, and I maybe should have tried to free more there.
Camping at the bivy platforms at the base would be illegal, and the wildlife punished us severely for leaving packs there during the day.
from Galen Rowell's AAJ article:
"By noon of the first day Warren was beginning to lead the overhang. He drilled shallow holes in which to place ground-down cliff hangers, which he christened bat hooks. He demonstrated their holding power by placing seven in a row on the overhang before placing a real bolt in a fully drilled hole. He then placed seven more bat hooks interspersed with pitons in a nebulous crack before placing another bolt. A final row including nine bat hooks finally put him on a ramp at the top of the overhang. For a normal party of climbers to bolt the overhang would have taken a couple of days. Warren had done it alone in six hours with his new technique. Only two expansion bolts were placed in the entire overhang."
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 2, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
|I am 5'10", and some of those rivets in the ladder were reachy! Having a couple of those extra-long rivet hangers were the ticket.|
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
May 17, 2013
Hiked to the base of the route the night before. Only found one pre existing bivy spot at the base right under the 4th class ramp to hike up to the actual route. Climbed it the next day. 14 hours to the top, then semi long hike back, about 4 miles if you miss the bus back to curry village, counting the hike off the dome back to the base and then out the mist trail to your car. The happy isles parking was closed when we did it, so you may just park there as well.
Crux of the route for me was following up the squeeze chimney on the big ledge off 8. It was a tight little hole and I am a smaller guy. The last belay to the top was the scariest and the most exposed. Make sure you save your 2 and 3 for the belay, which is no problem as you really don't need them on pitch 10 itself.
The granite was less traveled and had more of an alpine feel as the cracks were not so polished like other valley routes. Felt like being out at the hulk or something. Be ready for an adventure between finding the tension traverse on 6, aiding on cam hooks, climbing an over hanging rivet/ bolt ladder, climbing through bushes and getting through the squeeze.
By R.F. Battitude
May 22, 2014
|climbed car to car with Rat Fink over the weekend (same day as richie copelands accident, RIP) we did not bring a #5 and it was fine. If your aiding 5.9 maybe you want it... a #4 is handy in a number of places, start carrying it above the bolt ladder. for P5 One or Two rivet hangers is the most you need along with some smaller bd stoppers which give you a little more reach. One of the first bolts is missing (bat hook) and a large hook is handy on the bolt ladder. The cam hook move can be skipped by top stepping or girthing two nuts together. The last slab pitch is not as bad as its hype, a few small cams can offer pro between the first two bolts. We linked the 5.10 ramp pitch into the last with a 70m. Awesome route, great location.|