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Southwest Face (Alvera) T 

Southwest Face (Alvera) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Alvera, Pompanin, Illing, Appolonio June 19, 1945
Season: summer, early fall
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Feb 22, 2013

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Kim Miller (RKM) on the crux traverse with a cloud...

Description 

The first two pitches are pretty forgettable, but the last five pitches, off the big ledge, are worth the approach. The crux is probably the fourth pitch, Alvera Traverse. Don't forget to sign the register can in the hole at the end of the pitch.

The last pitch is pretty loose. Try not to knock anything down on the climbers below and get a solid belay on top.

Location 

The start of the route and it's first two pitches are pretty nondescript and can be done just about anywhere(line of least resistence).

The key is finding the start of the third pitch which seems to be a lot more left on the big ledge than one thinks. Once you find the correct spot, the description of the subsequent pitch in the Kohler/Memmel guidebook is spot on. Judging from all the bail gear a lot of people look for the third pitch too far right of the proper line.

For the descent, head north toward the east edge of the formation and find a Via Ferrata which leads down through the cliff band to the bottom of the formation.

Protection 

Standard Dolomite rack. Stoppers and Cams up to about 3". Long slings and free biners are helpful.


Photos of Southwest Face (Alvera) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent is by an easy walk off the summit (made aw...
Descent is by an easy walk off the summit (made aw...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kim Miller (RKM) enjoying the easy early pitches
Kim Miller (RKM) enjoying the easy early pitches
Rock Climbing Photo: SW Face of Monte Averau. Via Alvera climbs right o...
BETA PHOTO: SW Face of Monte Averau. Via Alvera climbs right o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit anchor is pretty big.  Fresh snow September...
Summit anchor is pretty big. Fresh snow September...
Rock Climbing Photo: Typical Dolomite's climbing.  Vertical jug hauling...
Typical Dolomite's climbing. Vertical jug hauling...
Rock Climbing Photo: A civilized approach.  Route goes directly up the ...
A civilized approach. Route goes directly up the ...

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