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Middle Teton
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 
Chouinard Ridge T 
Dike Pinnacle North Face T 
Dike route T 
Ellingwood Couloir T 
Middle Finger, Northwall, Mega Motter  T 
Middle Teton Glacier Route T 
North Ridge T 
Northwest Ice Couloir T 
Southwest Couloir T 
Unsorted Routes:

Southwest Couloir 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: H. Morris and I. Christensen, 1927
Season: Summer
Page Views: 8,449
Submitted By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
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Matt Schroer, Ryan Choi, and Kent Christensen on t...

Description 

This is the standard route on the Middle Teton. From the Meadows, head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. Going up this fork is more time consuming than the north fork due to a lack of a (decent) trail. Climb all the way to the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons (do not branch off right early).

The couloir should now be obvious on the left (west) side of the ridge leading to the summit. If snow-filled, ice axe and crampons will be needed. It seems, however, that this couloir melts out relatively rapidly. I remember it becomes quite narrow towards the top, and is a bowling alley if anyone is above you. Helmets recommended! The couloir tops out very near the summit.

Location 

Descend the same route.

Protection 

None.


Photos of Southwest Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the middle teton
Top of the middle teton
Rock Climbing Photo: Going down.  Mind the quality - it was taken on a ...
Going down. Mind the quality - it was taken on a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the top section of the Southwest Cou...
Looking up at the top section of the Southwest Cou...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper couloir can be reached from a trail that...
BETA PHOTO: The upper couloir can be reached from a trail that...
Rock Climbing Photo: Southwest Couloir from the South Teton (8/94).
BETA PHOTO: Southwest Couloir from the South Teton (8/94).

Comments on Southwest Couloir Add Comment
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By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

An excellent scramble. Did this in early September - take an ice axe and wear a helmet in the couloir. Crampons were not used, but missed while crossing rock hard snowfields at 6am. How is the summit view? Get up there and see for yourself - you will not be disappointed.
By tkessel
From: Windsor,CO
Jul 31, 2017
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a PG13

Did this route in the summer, careful of loose falling rock, kinda like a bowling alley in there, definitely wear a helmet

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