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Southwest Corner Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: Mike Mills on Nov 21, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Indicates Route for the Southwest Direct


Pitch 1: Start up pitch 1 of the West Face Traverse. Belay on the Southwest end of the large ledge that typically begins the traverse for pitch 1 of the West Face Traverse.

Pitch 2: Head up trending right from the belay toward a bush 20-30 ft above (runout) Once you reach the bush set some much needed protection and continue to trend right toward an obvious chimney that is the (well protected) crux of the climb. Once atop the chimney continue on easy ground to the summit and set the belay.

There was some debate as to the difficulty of the chimney and I went ahead and rated this on the hard side until there is better consensus.


Same start as the West Face Traverse. Like all other routes on the Tombstone the top is a walk off.


Set of Nuts and Set of Cams up to #3.
No fixed gear on the route. Pitch 2 can be belayed from slung boulders or trees.

The first ~20 ft of pitch 2 is runout on easy ground <5.5.

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