|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA:||Henry Buchtel + 6 CMC climbers, 1929|
|Submitted By:||Chris Wenker on Sep 8, 2011|
|Comments on Southwest Chimney||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Pete Krzanowsky
From: Evergreen, CO
May 28, 2012
|We did the north side rap. From the summit, it's down some moderate 3rd-4th class terrain and down a gully to a large boulder. It seemed very solid. Two 60m ropes was more than enough to get to relatively solid ground, for the San Juans. The rope tosses are difficult as the rap is at a moderate angle to start and it's tough to get the rope far out over the edge to start.|
By Steven Reneau
Jul 30, 2012
|After the 4th class gully, there are a pair of chimneys. The broader left chimney is the standard route, where we found a stuck tri-cam last week. Rap anchors (slings around a boulder, with rap rings) are at the top of the right chimney; not visible on the way up, but easy enough to find on the way down.|
From: the Mountains
Aug 17, 2016
The rappel boulder from the top of pitch two fell off. There is no established anchor to rappel from the top down the route. Rappel anchor for pitch one is far up and descender's right.
N Face rap is almost dead vertical and about 170 or 180'. Anchor was big slung boulder with an unweighted nut backup located about 10' below summit cairn.
Lots of webbing would be beneficial for supplementing/replacing tat. Loose! Hide 20' to the climber's right under rappel for partner.