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Southwest Arete T 

Southwest Arete 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
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Submitted By: Bryan G on Jun 13, 2015

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Spectacular views of Vernal & Nevada Falls, and Li...

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The climb is approached by first hiking to Sierra Point. Walk the JMT/Mist trail for a few minutes and you will pass a large trailhead sign with the mileage for many different destinations. Walk just a little bit further and you will see an interpretive sign about "Rock Piles". Scramble up the talus just to the left of the sign until you find the old Sierra Point trail. It's still a fairly popular hike and the path should be well-worn and easy to follow.

From Sierra Point ascend the brushy ledges along the ridge. After a couple minutes you will need to make a short downclimb to the right, then climb back out to the right on a thin crack in a corner. More ledges lead to the first "step" on the ridge.

Next you will encounter a prominent rib of 5th class rock. Ledges lead around to the right side of this, but they cliff out under some overhangs. Instead traverse on the left side of the ridge where the rock is slabbier. Eventually you will head up a corner/gully back onto the ridge proper. Then make an exposed step left into a chimney and tunnel through and up to more ledges.

That's it for the 4th class and exposure. The rest of the way to the summit is an unenjoyable bushwhack. Sign the summit register.

The easiest descent is to downclimb the notch route (class 3). Hike down the east ridge towards the notch. Stay to the right (south) side of the ridge whenever necessary. A couple short and unexposed downclimbs are all that's needed to reach the notch. From there you can descend the LeConte Gully back to the Valley floor, or bushwhack onwards to Half Dome, Broderick, ect...


Climbing shoes and a chalk bag are nice to have since the route is pretty stiff Class 4. A rope may be necessary depending on your comfort level.

Photos of Southwest Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: R Shore entering the "4th  class" crux o...
R Shore entering the "4th class" crux o...

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By Richard Shore
Jun 15, 2015

A really fun scenic scramble, and a nice change of pace from the typical Valley climb. Bit of a ant-filled bushwhack in places, but some cool knife-edge style exposure when out on the rock. The best route stays as close to the ridge as one feels comfortable - definitely some 5th class fun to be found.
By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Jun 18, 2015

Thanks for posting this up, Bryan. I've always been interested in Grizzly Peak.

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