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Grandma Peabody Boulder
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Center Direct 
Essential Peabody 
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Magnetic North 
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SE Arete T 
Southwest Arete T,TR 
West Corner 

Southwest Arete 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 11,054
Submitted By: Tim Steele on May 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Highball bouldering in the buttermilks


This often photographed arete ascends one of the tallest boulders in the country, and is a classic buttermilking experience not to be missed.

Start on the face about 10 feet right of the arete, then trend left to the arete and up to an airy perch. Move right following the lip patina to a memorable rock-over with about 35 feet of air under you.

Now find your way down the backside (more or less North east).


Think about the name folks. On the Grandma Peabody.


There are top-rope anchors if you want. But, the access is a 45 foot 5.6 slab on the other side. Also the down-climb.

Photos of Southwest Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Geis on "Southwest Arete". Photo b...
Chris Geis on "Southwest Arete". Photo b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Grandma peabody and the moon
Grandma peabody and the moon
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Livingston on a night ascent of the highball...
Aaron Livingston on a night ascent of the highball...
Rock Climbing Photo: Southwest Arete
Southwest Arete
Rock Climbing Photo: Will topping out the SW Arete
Will topping out the SW Arete
Rock Climbing Photo: sunset with cruz mclean and dustin fenstermacher
sunset with cruz mclean and dustin fenstermacher
Rock Climbing Photo: Alone on a  rock.
Alone on a rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Southwest Arete.
Southwest Arete.

Comments on Southwest Arete Add Comment
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By Tavis Ricksecker
Sep 21, 2008

The crux is the beginning but the 5.8 friction move at 30+ feet is puckerific! Don't fall.
By D-Storm
Oct 22, 2008

Because we're dealing with something usually climbed as an onsight freesolo, I feel obligated to throw my opinion into the mix and say that rating this route 5.8+ is a sandbag. The consensus of 5.9+ seems quite fair, but I will add that going up this with a mindset of 5.10- will make it seem easier and much more fun.

Oh, and do you see the spots where patina plates have pulled out? Think about those before yarding fast and desperate on the ones at the rock-over finish. (I was once a stupid youth who put too much stock in what everyone else said, and at the time I would've hopped on this route with a very different 5.8 experience in mind; I speak to such people here.)
By Chad N in Central CA
From: Central California
Mar 23, 2010

really fun climb !

the face at the start feels like 5.9+ then it gets easy. super high and great fun.
From: Portlandia, OR
Oct 12, 2010

Ha, I remember standing on my buddy's shoulders to get off the ground here.
By Wei-Ming
From: Atlanta, GA
May 11, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X

I'd like to echo D-storm's comment...

Approach it with some strong mental fortitude not to fall at 5.9/5.10-.
By Andy Liu
From: Eastern Sierra
Dec 15, 2014

By Alan Zhan
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 28, 2016

the friction move out right onto the glassy patina is puckerific!